Christanity

Christianity has had long and glorious relations with India. According to the legends, St. Thomas sailed to India from Eastern Asia in AD 52. He spent 12 years in India, the last eight of his life in Mylapore in Madras (now Chennai). Several shrines have been created in the places associated with him. Apart from this, the advent of Europeans in India from the 15th century onwards led to the mass influx of Christians and subsequent development of Christian worship places. Some of the churches of colonial India are comparable to the best in the world and are as much a part of the heritage of India as its ancient temples. You must visit these churches and explore the fascinating world of Christianity in India.

Buddhism

Buddhist Art & Architecture

Art as the sacred expression of religion is best exemplified in Buddhist art and architecture. The aesthetic expression of this art and architecture can be witnessed throughout the great expanse of the Asian landmass.

Early beginnings

The beginnings were very modest with the Master asking his followers to undertake a retreat (vassausa) during the rainy season lest they trample the newly sprouted vegetation. From these early temporary residences, the thatched huts, caverns and caves hewn out of rocks, spread across the vihara.

After the Master's Mahaparinirvana, his body was cremated and the ashes divided into eight portions. Thereafter the ashes, duly enshrined in caskets, were placed in stupas where they were venerated as in the Hindu burial mounds of the times. Stupas were built all over India as they symbolised the Master's Nirvana. In Tibetan, the stupas are called chorten and the remains of great lamas are encased here.

Emperor Ashoka

Emperor Ashoka fostered the existing tradition of erecting pillars and giving them an unrivalled technical finesse, exemplified by the polish that has remained undiminished to this day. The pillars were adorned with animal capitals like the lion capital at Sarnath. This was adopted as the state emblem of independent India in 1947.

Ashoka erected pillars in all corners of the empire, proclaiming the Dharma in the language of the people, Prakrit, using the Brahmi script. In the northwest provinces the script was Kharosti. In the Gandhara region in the extreme northwest it was in Aramaic and Greek.

The Stupas

Early stupas like the one at Sanchi were situated on the trade routes and were constantly being enlarged due to mercantile munificence reflected in the four toranas or gateways situated at the four corners.

Each torana has three richly embellished architraves which end in volutes. They resemble a picture scroll or pata citra, which was employed by storytellers, bards and teachers to recount the tales of yore, the Jataka tales being the favourite subject. Sanchi, Bharhut and Amravati represent a continuum, culminating in the stupa at Amravati. Chaityas, the Bodhi tree and the throne were also favourite motifs.

The anda or the hemispherical dome was the main body, which symbolized the cosmic mountain, with later stupas becoming increasingly cylindrical. Three circular discs on top of the anda were called the chattraveli or umbrella, a traditional honorific and auspicious symbol, standing for the Triratna or Three Jewels of Buddhism (the Buddha, the Dharma and the Sangha).

One of the world's oldest universities

Nalanda in Bihar has the ruins of one of the world's oldest universities, founded in the 5th century AD. In the 7th century Hiuen Tsang spent twelve years, both as a student and a teacher, at Nalanda which once had over 3,000 teachers and philosophers, attracting students from countries as far away as Java, Sumatra, Korea, Japan and China.

Chaityas and Viharas

Huge rock-cut chaityas (halls of worship) and viharas for the monks were carved in the hills far away from major towns but close to the trade routes. Many chaityas are found in Maharashtra, at Bhaja, Bedsa, Nasik and Karle and in Bihar, the Lomas Rishi chaityat Barabar hills.

In the early phases of Buddhist art, showing a pair of footprints or an empty throne symbolically depicted the Buddha. In Mahayana tradition, the Buddha was deified and viewed as a saviour. During the reign of the great Kushan emperor, Kanishka (about 78 AD), the Mathura school of art started the tradition of transforming Buddha's symbols into human form to facilitate worship.

The Buddha Pose

In the Mathura region during the Kushan period, the traditional figure of the Buddha as the meditative yogin was viewed for the first time, keeping the yaksha prototype in mind. The yakshas and other spirits were worshipped before the time of the Buddha. The early images of the Buddha were massive forms rendered in rough, unpolished sandstone with broad shoulders. The Buddha was portrayed with special attributes or lakshanas, which were the marks of great beings. Of the 32 lakshanas on the Buddha's person the urna or tuft of hair on the forehead, ushnisha or cranial protuberance, symbols of the wheel on the soles of the feet, were carved.

At the same time, in the northwestern region of Gandhara, there emerged a different school of art, which reflected Greek influence. The most striking characteristics of Gandhara art was, Buddha robed in the toga, a typically European garment, and his facial features were quite Hellenistic.

The Gupta period (4th - 7th century AD) saw Sarnath emerging as a school par excellence in Buddhist art. One of the best examples of this period is the preaching Buddha in the dharmchakrapravartana mudra, which is now at Sarnath Museum.

There is a belief, which persists even today, that to commission an image of the Buddha would earn spiritual merit for the commissioner.

The Buddhist religion, despite having a founder who had not supported the making of images and preached a doctrine against material possessions, acquired the world's richest and most varied system of visual support.

Buddhist iconography followed the Indian cultural tradition of using mudras, or elaborate hand gestures, to depict a wide range of moods and emotions. The above panel from Pala period, 12th century, illustrates the following mudras, from left to right:

Sarana - Palm facing the devotee, implying protection in the path of the Dharma.

Bhumisparsha -(also fourth from left) - The Buddha calls on the earth as a witness to his enlightenment.

Dharmachakrapravartana - The Buddha turns the Wheel of Law.

Dhyani - Arms clasped, the right above the left signifying meditation.

Ajanta and Ellora

Beginning with the 2nd century BC and continuing into the 6th century AD, the paintings, and to a lesser known degree, the sculptures in the caves of Ajanta inspired by Buddhism and its compassionate ethos, unleashed a surge of artistic excellence unmatched in human history. The creative use of colour and freedom of expression used in depicting human and animal forms makes the cave paintings at Ajanta one of the high watermarks of artistic creativity. The nearby cave complex of Ellora, though not exclusively Buddhist, continued to foster the artistic legacy of Ajanta for a couple of more centuries.

Perched precariously on craggy cliffs and snow capped mountains of the Trans Himalayan range, the box shaped gompas (monasteries) break the monotony of the treeless landscape in Laddakh. Alchi and Thiksey monasteries are storehouses of Tangkhas and richly painted clay impages of the Buddha. Tangkhas are generally used for worship. Tangkhas also serve as visual aid to meditation. Tangkhas are also put up in houses to ward off the evil eye and act as a good luck charm.

Giant cloth banners (snon-grol) are often unfurled on the slopes of the mountains during the annual monestic festivals when the cham dances take place. The most commonly used images on the Tangkhas range from the Buddha, BodhiSattvas, Taras, esoteric tutelary deities and mandalas, each serving a specific purpose. The Buddha, BodhiSattvas and Taras are painted in light colours whereas the tutelary deities are painted in Dark and sharply alternating colours providing a contrast.

Buddhist Literature

In monasteries perched on hillsides in the arid moonscape of Laddakh and among emerald rice fields in Thailand, young saffron clad monks sway and recite the same prayers. The Buddha's teachings are inscribed on prayer wheels in Mongolia, tangkha paintings in Tibet and palm leaf manuscripts in Sri Lanka. After 2500 years, Gautama Buddha still lives in his teachings, which have not been forgotten.

After the Mahaparinirvana of the Buddha at Kushinagar, the legends and myths, the commentaries and analyses began. Buddhist literature began with what the Buddha said and around it a body of canonical and non-canonical writing emerged. The earliest Buddhist literature to have survived is in Pali.

The Pitakas

The oldest Buddhist canonical writings like the Vinaya and Sutra Pitakas began as oral literature. Buddhist tradition has it that at the First great Council of monks at Rajgir after the death of the Master, his two disciples recited his teaching from memory. Upali recalled the Vinaya Pitaka and Ananda the Sutra Pitaka.

The earliest pali canon the Tripitaka, consists of three anthologies of writings, Vinaya, Sutra and Abhidharma pitakas. It is an immense body of writing, with each Pitaka divided into a number of books and further subdivided into commentaries and abstracts.

Vinaya Pitaka, the book of Discipline deals with the rules of monastic order, while Sutra Pitaka, the Book of Discourses, deals with the ethical principles of the Buddha's teachings. Abhidharma Pitaka, a collection on abstract philosophy, elaborates on the metaphysical principles underlying the dictrine.

Dhammapada, or in the steps of the Dharma, is a book people instantly connect with the sermons of Gautama Buddha. Its terse sayings are in pali verse, on a variety of subjects ranging from happiness, anger and craving to Enlightenment. These verses, memorized by young monks and lay believers of all ages across the world, embody the very spirit of the Buddha's teachings.

Poetic Writings

In the verses of the Theragatha and Therigatha one can still heat the poetic voices of bhikshus and bhikshunis describing how their lives were transformed by the teachings of the Buddha. Many of the poets were contemporaries of Sakyamuni. The verses by the bhikshus in the Theragatha are often spiritual and meditative, with may beautiful passages on nature while the nuns strike a more personal note and sing to the joys, sorrows and complexities of life. The Therigatha is the earliest anthology of women's writing in India, and includes verses by Amrapali, the courtesan of Vaishali who became a bhikshuni.

The Jataka Tales

Children across the Buddhist world grow up listening to the Jataka tales. Jataka means 'birth stories' and they chronicle the former incarnations of the Buddha as a man and as an animal. The stories have been told and retold for centuries to popularise the teachings of the Master. More than 500 stories still exist, many of them with animals as the main characters and have the humour and liveliness of folk tales and fables.

Though many of the Jataka stories have a moral, some are simple adventure tales. At the end of each story the hero is identified as a Bodhisattva. Episodes from the tales are carved on the gateway of the stupas of Sanchi and Bharhut among other sites, and also painted in the Ajanta Caves.

Milindapanha

One of the most interesting non-canonical works is Milindapanha or Questions of Milinda, which was written in Sanskrit in India in the beginning of the Christian era. The book is a dialogue between Milinda (Menander), a Greco-Bactrian king of Sakala (modern Sialkot in Pakistan) and a Buddhist monk, Nagasena. Milinda begins as a doubting man but by the end he is converted by Nagasena's brilliant replies and becomes an ardent believer.

Life Stories of the Buddha

The most famous life stories of the Buddha are Lalitavistara of the Sarvastivadin sect and Buddhancharita composed by the poet Aswaghosha in the 1st century AD. Then there are the three great Sri Lankan verse chronicles - Dipavamsa, the Island Chronicle; the Mahavamsa, the Great Chronicle; and Culavamsam the Lesser Chronicle. There are works in progress with monks constantly adding to them. They narrate the history of Buddhism in Sri Lanka.

Buddhist literature is a gift to the world from thousands of forgotten monks and nuns who preserved the manuscripts in their monasteries with care and devotion. In their fragile pages we can still hear the wise, compassionate voice of one of the greatest thinkers of world civilization.

Spread of the Dharma

In his first sermon the Dharmachakrapravrtana (Turning of the Wheel of Law) at Sarnath the Buddha put forth, The Middle Way, The Four Noble Truths and The Eightfold Path.

The message of the Buddha spread rapidly, penetrating caste and class barriers. The Buddha preached that the way to salvation was not dependent on God of Divine Grace but on understanding the way things really are. It is essentially concerned with all living, suffering beings caught in the treadmill of desire and craving.

Sakyamuni's message encapsulated complex issues of existence in a lucid manner, punctuated with anecdotes from day-to-day life.

One day the Buddha encountered a woman who begged the Lord to save her dead child. The Lord asked the woman to get a mustard seed from a household that had not experienced death. The woman came back after a while, unsuccessful but sobered and fell at the feet of the Master. The Buddha then expounded to her the transitory nature of human existence.

The path to salvation

By the time the Buddha attained Mahaparinirvana (final extinction) at the age of 80 years, the teachings he had propounded had a large following in north India, especially between the warrior and the merchant classes. Buddhism's appeal lay in its vision of a world where deliverance from the caste-ridden and ritualistic Brahmanical Hindu order was possible. Above all, the enlightened one preached that salvation was in one's own hands, possible in this world, by freeing oneself from desire.

The first Buddhist Council

A few months after the Mahaparinirvana a great gathering of monks, popularly known as the first Buddhist Council, took place at Saptaparni caves near Rajagriha. The teachings of the master were codified for the first time and the Vinaya Pitaka and the Sutra Pitaka were compiled. A second Buddhist Council was held at Vaishsali a hundred years later, where schisms arose between the orthodox Sthaviravadins (elders) and the Mahasanghikas (the great community) regarding points of monastic discipline and philosophy. The Third Council at Patalipurta was held under the patronage of the Mauryan emperor, Ashoka. His son, Mahendra, and daughter, Sanghamitra, went to Sri Lanka to spread the teachings of the Great Master there.

Emperor Ashoka embraces Buddhism

Emperor Ashoka whose reign spanned from 268 to 239 BC, converted to Buddhism after experiencing a crisis of conscience following his bloody victory at the Kalinga war where he was responsible for the ruthless massacre of tens and thousands of innocent victims.

After embracing the Faith in 260 BC, Ashoka attempted to rule by the principles of dharma, justice and non-violence associated with Buddha's teaching. Ashoka took major steps to popularize Buddhism throughout his vast empire.

As early as in the first hundred years after the Lord's Mahaparinirvana, different schools of thought arose within Buddhism. This was a result of the intense debates within the monastic order. The influence of rituals and the devotional philosophy that pervaded Hinduism was also a factor. The most significant result was the rise of the Mahayana (meaning great vehicle), while the older school was called Hinayana (meaning little vehicle).

The Mahayana

Mahayana doctrine represented a great ferryboat that would take humanity across the sea of suffering and rebirth to the shore of Nirvana. The Mahayana school shifted the focus from Arhat to Boddhisattva. The Arhat was the person seeking Nirvana for his personal salvation, while the Boddhisattive was one who postponed his entry into Nirvana until he could lead all other beings to Nirvana as well. It laid emphasis on salvation for all. This was a departure from the ideal of the earlier school. To the Mahayana school, the Buddha was not only a teacher but also a saviour.

In Sri Lanka, the school of the elders held its own against the Mahayana tide and was known as the Theravada. Under the patronage of powerful kings like Parakkramabahu (1153-86), Sinhalese monks took Theravada to Burma. The Dharma was established in Thailand a century later, while Cambodia and Laos adopted Buddhism in the 14th century.

From the famed mahaviharas (monastic universities) of North India, Buddhism reached China by way of traders as early as 50 BC, and from there to Korea, and later to Japan from Korea in the 6th century AD.

Zen Buddhism

Zen Buddhism was introduced in Japan in the mid-12th century but its strict stipulations and subtleties, with emphasis on personal effort, did not attract many followers in the beginning.

The crux of Zen philosophy is the Mahayana theory of universal Buddhahood. Zen is Japanese for Chinese Ch'an, which is derived from Sanskrit dhyana (meditation).

Buddhism comes to Tibet

In the 8th century AD Santarakshita from Nalanda Mahavihara went to Tibet to spread Buddhism. Facing hostilities from the local populace, he was forced to return. Soon after, Acharya Parmasambhava, the great Buddhist Tantric Master from Kashmir, was more successful, and established Buddhism in Tibet. Tibetan Buddhists revere him as Guru Rinpoche.

A new school of Buddhism, Vajrayana (vajra meaning thunderbolt), arose in Tibet around the 8th century. It is often described as the 'completed Dharma' because it absorbed the doctrines of both Theravada and Mahayana and also embraced tantra.

From Tibet, Buddhism spread to Mongolia and the fierce Mongols were converted to one of the gentlest faiths ever propagated. The genius of Buddhism was that local specificities were taken into account and thus Buddhist Dharma became thoroughly integrated into the culture of each country, from the islands of Japan to the landlocked mountains of Tibet and Mongolia.

The Buddhist faith in India

The resurgence of devotional Hinduism, incorporating popular cults and Buddhist practices like ahimsa, puja worship and vegetarianism, narrowed the differences between Hinduism and Buddhism in everyday life. The Turkish invasions beginning in the 10th century dealt a further blow to Buddhism in India and the major monasteries of India were wiped off the map. Thereafter, Buddhism has never come back as major force in the land of Sakyamuni's birth.

In modern India, Buddhism survives only in isolated pockets among the peoples of Ladakh, Lahaul, Spiti, Kinnaur in the western Himalayas and the Monpas, Shedukpens, Lepchas, Bhutias and Chankmas in the eastern Himalayas. The conversion of some sections of depressed class Hindus under the leadership of Dr B R Ambedkar in the late 1950s and 1960s is an instance of Buddhist revival in India.

The flight of his Holiness the XIVth Dalai Lama from Tibet in 1959, led to the establishment of his government in exile in Dharamsala in North India, where there is a thriving Tibetan Buddhist community. The Tibetan influence has led to the founding of more than a hundred monasteries all over India, besides reviving older ones, especially in the Western Himalayas.

Buddhism in Europe

Europe was initiated into Buddhist philosophy with early 19th century colonial administrators, linguists and scholars taking an active interest in the ancient texts of the Orient. The works of Col Henry Olcott, the American co-founder of Theosophical Society, and Edwin Arnold's poem, 'The Light of Asia' , published in 1879, further spurred this intellectual curiosity. However, it was not till the middle of this century that Buddhism as a religion espousing non-violence was firmly entrenched in the consciousness of post-war Europe. Travellers who had been to the East returned to Europe and North America immersed in Buddhist philosophy. Asian teachers arrived in Europe, often on teaching visits. Some of them established Buddhist centres with communities of monks and lay people living under the guidance of Dharma masters.

Buddhist Excursions in India

Ajanta and Ellora

Situated in Aurangabad district of Maharashtra, Ajanta has acquired world renown for its famed paintings. The caves of Ajanta provided the canvas for innumerable paintings, not by Buddhist monks as is commonly believed, but by highly trained members of guilds of artists under monastic and royal patronage.

Ajanta paintings - the brilliant union between sacred and secular art.

Beginning in the 2nd century BC, and continuing for 900 years, twenty-six caves were chipped out of a horseshoe shaped cliff. The paintings at Ajanta flow into one another, forming an endless kaleidoscope of colour and motion. Although the Jataka tales from the main theme of the paintings also depicted are scenes from contemporary courtly life. The large individual figures painted with an eye for colour and detail attract attention. The best paintings are in cave numbers 1, 2, 16, 17 and 19; and the best sculptures are in cave numbers 4, 17, 19 and 26.

A visit to Ajanta is incomplete without visiting the nearby caves at Ellora. Starting from the 7th century AD, Ellora carried on the great legacy of Ajanta and was subject to Buddhist and later Hindu and Jain influences. The sculptures at Ellora are massive in form though they continue to reflect the fluidity of the Ajanta sculptures. There are twelve Buddhist caves in all and the entire spectrum of carvings pulsates with life and energy. The famous rock-cut Hindu temple of Kailasanath is in Ellora.

Aurangabad provides a base for visiting the caves of Ajanta, 100 kms and Ellora 30 kms away. Indian Airlines connects Aurangabad with Mumbai and Delhi.

Dharamsala

Upper Dharamsala or McLeodganj is in Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh. This hill station with its magnificent view of the Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas is the seat of His Holiness, the XIVth Dalai Lama and the headquarters of the Tibetan government-in-exile. The town has a large Tibetan refugee settlement. The numerous monks in their flowing maroon robes, the many street side shops selling momos and butter tea and old Tibetan women in their traditional clothes walking past serenely turning their prayer wheels, could well be in Tibet. The bazaar has shops selling Tibetan exotica. The main road leads to the Dalai Lama's temple, Namgyal monastery. It houses giant stucco statues of the Buddha, Avalokiteshwara and Padmasambhava, and the traveller can join the devout in their ritual of circumambulating the temple and rotating the prayer wheels.

A further twenty-minute trek leads to Gangchen Kyishong, where the offices of the Tibetan government-in-exile and the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives are located.

Within the same complex is the beautiful monastery of the Nechung Oracle where one can witness daily services. A stone's throw away is the Men-tsee-khang, the Centre for Tibetan Medicine. A 14 kms drive down is the Norbulingka Institute, famed for keeping the cultural life of Tibet alive.

How to get there

Dharamsala is well connected by road to Pathankot (90 kms), Chandigarh (248), Manali (253 kms), and Shimla (317 kms). There are daily buses to Delhi (521 kms) as well. From the railway station at Pathankot there are overnight trains to Delhi. Consult your travel agent if you are planning to book a flight from the nearest airport at Gaggal (13 kms).

Leh

Surrounded by the snow-covered Himalayas, even the summer months, between June and September, can be quite chilly in Leh, the remote headquarters of Ladakh district, situated at an altitude of 3500 metres.

Buddhist gompas

The famous Buddhist gompas (monasteries) are perched perilously on the precipices with enchanting but forbidding mountains in the background.

Hemis, the largest of these gompas, founded in the 17th century, has as excellent library and is famous for housing the largest tangkha in India. Hemis is the most accessible of all the Ladakhi gompas and visitors flock here during the annual festival held in June-July.

Other gompas like Shey (15 kms from Leh), Spituk (8 kms from Leh), Thikse (17 kms south of Leh) are also easily accessible. However, their annual festivals are held during the winter months.

Stok Gompa and the Stok Palace Museum (10 kms south of Leh) are musts for visitors to Leh because of the rare collection of paintings and tangkhas. Alchi has one of the most beautiful monasteries in the Himalayan region and the 70 kms road journey from Leh is well worth the effort.

Rinchen Zangpo founded Alchi Gompa in the 11th century and it has some beautiful mural paintings dating from that period.

Inner Line Permit, available easily from the District Commissioner's office in Leh, is required by both foreign and Indian travellers to visit the newly opened areas of the Nubra Valley, Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso.

How to get there

There are daily flights in summer by Indian Airlines to Leh from Srinagar and Delhi, but inclement weather often leads to erratic schedules. The overland routes, probably some of the most ruggedly beautiful journeys, are from Srinagar and Manali. However these roads are open only from June to October. Though these days the roads open up sooner than June, it is advisable to consult the local authorities about the same if you are planning a visit by road before June. The best season to visit Leh is between Mid-May and September.

Nagarjunakuonda and Amravati

Buddhist religion spread to Sri Lanka and Burma from the bustling Bay of Bengal ports of the Andhra coast. One of India's richest Buddhist sites, Nagarjunakonda, ancient Sri Parvata, now lies almost entirely under the Nagarjunasagar Dam. The monasteries and chaityas were reconstructed on top of a hill called Nagarjunakonda (konda is the Telegu word for hill), which rises from the middle of the lake. The island takes its name from the Buddhist monk, Nagarjuna, who lived around the turn of the 2nd century AD and was the exponent of the philosophy of sunyata (void). Statues, friezes, coins and jewellery found at the site are housed in a museum on the island and give a fascinating insight into the daily lives of this ancient Buddhist centre.

Nagarjunakonda is about 150 kms southeast of Hyderabad, the state capital of Andhra Pradesh. There is a regular ferry service to Nagarjunakonda.

Amaravati, ancient Dhanyakataka, is about 38 kms from Vijaywada, and can also be reached via Guntur, 35 kms away. An emissary of Emperor Ashoka, who went to propagate Buddhism in the region, laid the foundation of the Great Stupa at Amaravati. It has a brick-built circular vedica (drum) and platforms projecting in the four cardinal directions. Much of the vast archaeological findings from the site, magnificent sculpted friezes, medallions and railings, are now exhibited in the British Museum, London, and the National Museum, Delhi.

There is also a small Archaeological Museum on the site containing some of the finds from the area. Some of the exhibits are from other sites in the Krishna valley region as well.

Orissa Sites

The Buddhist heritage in Orissa, though not as popular in the tourist circuit, is remarkable for its architectureal wealth. The Kalinga war, which transformed Emperor Ashoka into a devout Buddhist was fought on the banks of the river Daya near the temple city of Bhubaneshwar, the capital of Orissa. Bhubaneshwar is well connected by rail and road to the rest of the country.

Ashoka's rock edicts

Ashoka's rock edicts, dating from 260 BC, at Dhauli, 8 kms from Bhubaneshwar, stand testimony to his conversion to the gentle faith of the Buddha. These two 'Kalinga Edicts' differ from other Ashoka edicts which expound Buddhist principles. Dating from 260 BC the Dhauli edicts give detailed instructions to Ashoka's administratiors to rule his subjects with gentleness and fairness.

Six kilometres from Bhubaneshwar are the caves of Udayagiri and Khandagiri, dating from 2nd century BC, on two separate hillocks separated by a road. At Udayagiri is the famous Hati Gumpha (elephant cave) of King Kharavela. There are several caves worth visiting with stone figures from the Buddhist pantheon and fine wall friezes.

The three sites of Ratnagiri, Udaigiri and Lalitagiri, constitute a separate circuit, well connected by road to Bhubaneshwar. Ratnagiri in the fertile Birupa river valley, 90 kms from Bhubaneshwar, was a great centre of Vajrayana Buddhist till the 12th century and the Mahavihara of Ratnagiri played a great role in the development of the Kalachakratantra during the 10th century. Today, pilgrims can see the remains of this monastic university along with the beautiful sculpted panels that reveal the intricate motifs on the niches.

In Udaigiri, 5 kms from Ratnagiri, the remains of a sprawling monastery has been recently excavated, that can be reached through a long stairway. Rock-cut sculptures adorn the hilltop. Lalitagiri is situated on a small hill and has a large number of votive stupas and the remains of a chaitya hall. Also noteworthy are the large number of Buddha figures housed in the site museum. There is a stone carver's village that has survived from ancient times where excellent sculptures are often to be found.

Rumtek and Pemagyantse

Situated in the lap of the Himalayas, the eastern Indian state of Sikkim, is famous for its gompas and their fascinating monastic ceremonies.

Rumtek monastery is visible from the capital Gangtok though it is 24 kms away in one of the lower valleys. Runtek is the seat of His Holiness, the XVIth Gyawla Karmapa, the head of the Karma Kagyu Order of Tibetan Buddhism. The cham dance is performed on the 28th and 29th day of the tenth lunar month (July). The monks wear grotesque masks and colourful dresses the dance culminates in a ritual dismembering of an effigy symbolising evil.

A full day's trip by car from Gangtok, the monastery at Pemagyantse (the perfect sublime lotus) is 140 kms west of Gangtok. Situated at an altitude of 2085 meters, Pemagyantse presents a panoramic view of the high Himalayas. Legend has it that the great tantric saint, Padmasambhava or Guru Rinpoche, searching for a place to meditate, shot an arrow in the air. The place where the arrow landed is where pemagyantse monastery stands. The monastery houses on its top floor a wooden, intricately crafted structure, depicting Guru Rinpoche's abode. The annual cham festival is held in February.

How to get there

The nearest airport is at Bagdogra, 124 kms from Gangtok

The nearest railway stations are at Siliguri, 114 kms, and New Jalpaiguri, 126 kms from Gangtok.

Sanchi

The complex at Sanchi has some of the oldest and finest examples of Buddhist architecture. The Jataka stories about the Buddha's earlier incarnations, and episodes of the Buddha's life, form the main subject matter in the sculpted architraves of the Chaitya, temples, pillars and monasteries. They present a fascinating array of complex images narrated in a linear fashion.

Sanchi was once situated on the major north-south trade route, the famous Dakshinapatha, and this was one of the reasons why kings and merchants continued to patronise it till well into the 6th century AD. The profusion of images at Sanchi seem to exude life at its fullest, reflecting the agrarian prosperity of the times (22nd century BC to 7th century AD) when Sanchi was at the height of its glory.

What to See

The Great Stupa

Emperor Ashoka built this famous stupa in the 32nd century BC. The massive stupa with its intricately carved toranas (gateways) is considered to be the most complete example of the early Buddhist stupa in its extant form. The gateways are a masterpiece of both architecture and sculpture.

Pali literary sources speak of Emperor Ashoka's dedication to the original stupa, and his erecting a pillar with a lion capital here. The figure of a yakshi reaching out for a branch as shown in the corner of an architrave is one of the most captivating images of Sanchi.

Ashoka Pillar

Lies near the southern gateway of the stupa, and is considered to be one of the finest examples of Ashokan pillars.

Gupta Temple

This 5th century AD temple is one of the earliest known examples of temple architecture in India.

Sanchi Museum

This has a small collection of sculptures from the site (caskets, pottery, parts of the gateway) of which the Ashoka lion capital, a yakshi and a beautiful Buddha in red sandstone are noteworthy.

Climate

Summer (Mar. to Jun.): Warm
Monsoon (Jul to Aug.): Warm
Winter (Nov. to Feb.): Cool and pleasant

Clothing

Summer-Cottons
Winter- Woollens

Getting There

By Air

The nearest airport is at Bhopal, Capital of Madhya Pradesh (72 km).

By Rail

Sanchi, lies on the rail route between Delhi and Bhopal. On the Delhi-Mumbai railway line, the nearest railhead is Vidisha (10 km).

By Road

There is regular bus service from Sanchi to Bhopal. Taxis are available from Bhopal.

Where To Stay

Sri Lanka Mahabodhi Society Rest House
Travellers Lodge
Buddhist Guest House
Circuit House

Few people stay overnight in Sanchi, as the tour can be comfortably completed in one day from Bhopal.

Tabo

Tabo is located at a hight of 3050 metres in the magnificently isolated Spiti valley in Himachal Pradesh.

Founded in 996 AD by the great scholar, Rinchen Zangpo, as an institution for advanced learning, Tabo celebrated its 1000th anniversary in 1996. Unlike most other monasteries in the Western Himalayas, Tabo stands on barren, flat ground and it was built with mud and bricks.

A small community of sixty monks resides here. The monastery has some rare tangkhas and clay statues of the Buddha painted in the Kashmiri style.

Tabo has survived because of its isolation, protected from invader by hostile, inaccessible passes. Even today, the weather permits trekking for only a limited period in the year. However, the small town is rapidly being modernised with electric lights and paved streets. The local shops here stock basic provision for trekkers.

Seasonal access by road to Manali and to Simla via National Highway 22 and State Highway 30 is possible. A bus journey from Kaza, the headquarters of Spiti district, to Shimla, takes two days and to Manali, twelve hours. Tabo is 33 kms, and a slow two-hour drive by bus from Kaza.

Tawang

Tawang monastery, situated at a height of 3400 meters, in the far west of the northeast Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, is one of the largest monasteries in India. The present monastery was built at the site of an ancient monastery in the 17th century. The VIth Dalai Lama was born near here. Tawang stands isolated from the rest of the world with its community of 500 lamas peacefully performing their daily rituals. Though difficult to reach, Tawang continues to attract scholars and pilgrims.

The main attractions are a gigantic 10 meters gilded statue of the Buddha, the large collection of priceless manuscripts, books and tangkhas, which depict the Buddha and tutelary deities in different poses. Indians need an Inner Line Permit and foreign visitors a Restricted Area Permit. Both are easily available from the office of the Resident Commissioner, Arunachal Pradesh, New Delhi, Ph-23013956, of from FRRO offices in any of the metros. Tezpur, 216 kms away, is the nearest airport.

Gateways to Sacred Sites

Bodh Gaya

Bodh Gaya (once Uruvela village) is the place where, 2500 years ago, in the 6th century BC, a young ascetic, Siddhartha, attained enlightenment to become the Buddha, and found Buddhism, one of the world's oldest religions. Born into the ruling family of the Sakyas, Siddhartha had renounced his royal heritage, and since then had faced many hardships in his search for Truth. He came to Bodh Gaya looking for a quiet retreat where he could meditate upon the causes for human suffering.

Siddhartha spread Kusha grass beneath the Bodhi or Bo tree (Pipal tree, botanical name Ficus religiosia) and sat cross-legged facing the east with a vow to get up only if he attained supreme knowledge. For 7 weeks, Mara, the temptor, assaulted him with his weapons of flood, fire, thunder and lightening. Then Mara's three beautiful daughters tried to allure him, but in vain. Siddhartha entered deeper states of contemplation. His quest finally ended at dawn on Vaisakha Poornima, the full moon day in April-May, when the kind daughter of the village chief of Senani, Sujata, brought him a bowl of kheer (sweet thickened milk). It is said that the gods had infused the kheer with ambrosia. Siddhartha attained Samma Sambodhi, the Enlightenment that he had been seeking for so long. He was no more a seeker ?he had become the Buddha.

As the place of the Buddha's Enlightenment, Bodh Gaya is the spiritual home of Buddhists. Located in Bihar, 115 kms from Patna, the land is rich and fertile, dotted with green fields and watered by the river Phalgu - the same ancient Nairanjana River where the Buddha bathed after attaining enlightenment. A range of low forested hills silhouette the small hamlets flanking the glistening, sandy banks of the river. Monks and nuns rub shoulders with tourists and believers from all over the world. An all-pervading calm envelops the town, giving visitors a sense of peace.

Kapilavastu

The little village of Piprahwa, 93 kms from Lumbini via Sonauli, is identified as Kapilavastu, the place where the Lord spent the first thirty years of his life. If Lumbini is remote, then Kapilavastu seems to be caught in a time warp.

Excavations were conducted by the Archaeological Survey of India between 1971 and 1977. In a stupa that was excavated, referred to as the Eastern Stupa, by archaeologists, an inscription was found dating back to the Kushan period. Its text read "Om devaputra vihare Kapilavsastu bhikku sanghasa" (This is the Devaputra Vihara of the Kapilavastu Bhikshu Sangha).

One and a half kilometres from the site there are two excavated mounds. The large one is a thick walled structure, which according to local belief, was Suddhodana's palace.

There is a small Sri Lankan monastery and temple, Mahinda Mahavihara, in the vicinity of the ruins.

Kushinagar

Kushinagar is the place that the Buddha chose for his Mahaparinirvana, or final exit from this earth. Kushinagar or Kushinara as it was then known was the capital of the Malla republic, one of the republican states of northern India during the 6th and 5th centuries BC. Kushinagar is identified with the modern village of Kasia, 51 kms from Gorakhpur city, in eastern Uttar Pradesh.

During his lifetime the Master traversed the dusty plains of the Ganga valley, subsisting on whatever he collected as alms, and pausing to rest only during the rainy season. In 543 BC on the full moon night of Magh (January - February), the Master lectured to the Sangha at the village, Beluva, near Vaishali, on the impermanence of all living things, and said that his own life on earth was soon to end.

His last meal

From Vaishali the Lord went to Pava, where a humble metalsmith, Chunda, invited the Sangha for a meal. Having tasted the food, the Master immediately realised that there was something wrong with it and asked Chunda to burry the rest so that others would not be harmed by it. Chunda was overcome with grief and guilt when he realised that his offering was the cause of the Master's fatal illness. But the Buddha consoled him saying that one who donates the Buddha's last meal acquires great merit.

The Buddha desired to leave his corporeal body at the Sal grove on the banks of the Hiranyavati River in Kushinagar. The Master asked the Sangha, whether anyone had any queries. Sakyamuni then uttered the last words, "Now, bhikshus, I declare to you: all conditioned things are of a nature to decay - strive on untiringly."

On a bed, which Ananda had prepared under two Sal (shorea robusta) trees, the Lord entered the sphere of No Nothingness then the sphere of Infinite Consciousness, then the sphere of Neither Perception, nor Non-Perception.

Paying homage

King and commoner, villager and townsman from far and near flocked to pay obeisance to the earthly remains of the Lord for the next six days. On the seventh day the Lord's person was bedecked with garlands and taken in a procession to the accompaniment of music. The revered bhikshu, Mahakashyapa lit the funeral pyre at Mukutabandha Vihara (Rambhar Stupa) in Kushinagar. Today not much remains of this stupa expect a large brick mound rising to a height of almost 15 metres set within a well-kept park.

Thereafter there ensued a war among eight great powers of north India for the possession of the holy relics. Finally the sacred relics were divided and encased in eight stupas in different parts of the country.

The Mahaparinirvana temple

In 7th century AD, the Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang lamented on the desolation of this sacred site. However he mentions the Mahaparinirvana Stupa. Thereafter Kushinagar sank into near oblivion, almost forgotten by the world until early this century.

The Mahaparinirvana temple enshrines a 6 metre long statue of the Buddha in the Parinirvana posture. Carved from black stone, the statue now looks metallic gold because of the application of gold leaves by pilgrims.

The best time to visit this temple is in the early hours of the evening, when the mellow light from the candles and the chanting of mantras render a sacred aura to the temple.

About 366 metres from the Mahaparinirvana temple is the small Mathakuar shrine, built on the spot where the Buddha delivered his last sermon. Here there is a black stone image of the Buddha in the bhumisparsha mudra built in the 5th century AD.

Monasteries and temples

There are several new monasteries and temples. The Sri Lanka -Japan monastery has an Ashta Dhatu (eight metals) statue of the Buddha flanked by Japanese - style portraits of his ten principal bhikshus. The oldest monastery in Kushinagar is the large Burmese Chandramani Bhikshu Bharamasala, which is next to the Chinese Temple with its marble images of the Buddha and the White Tara.

Next to the meditation centre of the Sri Lanka Japanese Foundation is the new Kushinagar Museum.

Getting There

By Road

Gorakhpur - 51 kms
Lumbini via Gorakhpur - 176 kms
Kapilavastu - 148 kms

Nearest Railhead

Gorakhpur - 51 kms

Nearest Airport

Varanasi - 280 kms

Lumbini

Lumbini grove, the sacred site of Lord Buddha's birth is today a small village in Nepal, 27 kms from Sonauli on the Indo-Nepal border.

The Rummendei pillar

Three hundred years after the Mahaparinirvana, Emperor Ashoka visited Lumbini and erected a pillar there. This pillar, though broken, still remains at the site. It is known as the Rummendei pillar after the earlier name of the place (modern name Rupandhei) in Nepal.

The Chinese traveller, Fa Hien, in the 5th century AD and other travellers and pilgrims were aghast to see that jungles had swallowed the entire place, and nothing existed of the scenic pleasure garden. Excavations beginning in the 19th century have once again drawn attention to this holy place.

The heavens filled with light and the devas (Gods), showered flowers on the young Prince Siddhartha who descended from his mother's womb on a lotus pedestal. The prince took seven strides in all the four directions and announced that this would be his last birth. Queen Mahamaya departed to the heavenly abode soon after giving birth.

Asita's prophesy

An old sage, Asita, prophesied that the prince would become a world renouncer if he ever experienced suffering. To ward off this possibility, King Suddhodana ensconced the prince in the royal luxuries of his palace at Kapilavastu, but to no avail. Destiny took its course and Prince Siddhartha renounced his royal heritage and set off on the course to find a solution to end human misery.

The Mayadevi temple

The Mayadevi temple and the tank nearby are part of the sacred complex. There are two beautiful panels in the temple, the older one in stone and the other in marble. Both panels show Mayadevi holding the Sal tree and the young prince emerging out of her right side. Just outside the temple is a tank whose water glistens in the faint sun, the gentle breeze creating endless ripples. Here Queen Mahamaya had her bath before the delivery and it was also here that prince Siddhartha had his first purificatory bath.

The sacred site of the Buddha's birth is at the southern end of Lumbini grove. Excavations have revealed a series of rooms and a stone slab, which is now believed to mark the exact location at which the Buddha was born.

The place where the miraculous birth took place is today a mound that has been cordoned off for further excavations. The whole place has an air of remoteness except when the occasional busload of pilgrims from different corners of the Buddhist universe arrives.

Lumbini Dharmodaya Samiti Dharmashala, a Theravada Buddhist Vihara, established in 1956, is just outside the complex. Built in the style of modern Nepalese temples, it has intricately carved woodwork in the doorways and windows, and colourful murals depicting events from the life of the lord in its spacious interiors.

Dharmaswami Maharaja Buddha Vihara

This Tibetan gompa belonging to the Sakyapa order, is also outside the complex. His Eminence Chogya the complex. His Eminence Chogya Trichen Rinpoche and the Raja of Mustang established it. Every morning around sixty monks who reside here conduct the Tara Puja. At the end of September, two thousand monks congregate for the ten-day peace puja and on 13th December each year for the Mahakala Puja, which lasts for 10 days.

A couple of kilometres away, a complex of monasteries is being constructed on a grand scale. Monasteries in the respective national styles of Myanmar (Burma) China, Japan Korea and Thailand are among those that are being built.

Also in the vicinity are the Lumbini Research Institute, which has an impressive collection of Buddhist literature, and a Museum.

Both are open from Sunday to Saturday, 10 am to 5 pm (10 am to 4 pm in winter)

Getting There

Lumbini is in Nepal, 27 kms from the Indian border at Sonauli. To enter Nepal, people from India and Bhutan do not need any visa but foreign nationals do. For details contact the nearest Royal Nepal Embassy in your country or in India.

By Road

Gorakhpur via Sonauli - 123 kms
Sonauli - 27 kms
Kushinagar via Gorakhpur - 176 kms
Kapilavastu (Piprahwa) via Sonauli - 93 kms

Nearest Railhead

Gorakhpur via Sonauli - 123 kms

Nearest Airport

Varanasi - 413 kms
Bhairawha (Nepal) - 13 kms

Nalanda

Silence reigns supreme, gradually the early morning sun lifts the mantle of darkness in its golden light, the scores of ruined red brick buildings set amongst lush green lawns appear almost ethereal, These is no sign of life today except for a few curious visitors. But once the place throbbed with life, its corridors reverberated with eager voices engrossed in the pursuit of knowledge.

Nalanda, the most renowned university in ancient India.

It derived its name from Na-alam-da, meaning Insatiable in Giving, one of the names by which the Lord Buddha was known. Today it is identified with modern Baragaon village and is 90 kms southeast of Patna and only 11 kms from Rajgir. It is about 80 kms from Bodh Gaya and is easily accessible by well-maintained highways.

The monastic university, Nalanda Mahavihara, was a magnificent architectural structure. An inscription of King Yashovarman of 7th century AD describes Nalanda as "rows of monasteries with their series of turrets licking the clouds."

Sariputra - The disciple

The Buddha came to Nalanda often and stayed at Setthi Pavarika's mango grove. Two of Sakyamuni's chief disciples, Sariputra and Maudgalyayana, came from the vicinity of Nalanda. Sariputra, who was considered the foremost in wisdom and had a very important place in the Sangha, attained Nirvana here. Emperor Ashoka came to Nalanda to worship at the chaitya of Sariputra and built another temple over the existing shrine. Fa Hien mentions having seen this stupa.

The first Mahavihara

It was at this sanctified site that the Mahavihara was first established in the reign Emperor Kumargupta in the 5th century AD, a tradition carried forward by his successors in the Gupta dynasty. During the reign of Devapala in the beginning of the 9th century, Nalanda reached its zenith of fame and glory. Emissaries from around the world came with rich presents and generous donations to Nalanda, as they did to other contemporary Buddhist universities like Odantapuri, a stone's throw away from Nalanda, and Vikramshila, in Bhagalpur district of Bihar.

In the thirst for dharna

Scholars converged on this blessed place, once traversed by the Buddha, thirsting for Dharma. Hiuen Tasang and later his disciple Hwui Li, who studied at this great institution in the 6th and 7th centuries, have left behind detailed descriptions. Admission was extremely coveted and only two out of ten eminent scholars were admitted.

The art of debate (vada) and public speaking and secular subjects like mathematics and medicine were taught here. Doctrinal points were continually debated and debating was a necessary part of monastic education. Among the renowned Indian scholars trained at Nalanda were Nagarjuna, Aryadeva and Asanga. Santarakshita, and thereafter Padmasambhava, went to Tibet from Nalanda to spread the teaching of Sakyamuni. A massive fire, schisms between the different Buddhist sects and the resurgence of devotional Hinduism pushed Nalanda to the brink of destruction. Its final nemesis came with the Muslim invader Bakhtiyar Khalji who brutally wiped it off the map. A few valuable manuscripts were able to flee from the onslaught.

Nalanda - A world Heritage site

Excavations in the 1860s' by Alexander Cunningham led to the discovery of the official seal with the inscriptions Sri Nalanda Magavihara Arya Bhikshu Sanghasya (Venerable Community of Monks in the Great Vihara of Sri Nalanda.)

Nalanda is spread out over an area of 14 hectares and has the ruins of 11 monasteries and 5 temples. Stone paved pathways criss-cross the entire site. Sariputra's Stupa is the most imposing structure standing in the south; a few minutes walk from the main gate. This large stupa was built over the mortal remains of Sariputra. Its corner towers display niches holding well-modelled stucco figures of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas. A flight of steps leads to the shrine chamber, which once housed a colossal image of Lord Buddha.

The monastic remains show a number of small cells with wide verandahs in the front, set around open quadrangular courts. Each complex had a main shrine housing a large figure of the Buddha. Huge ovens were also excavated suggesting that there was a common kitchen for students.

The Archaeological Survey of India maintains the Nalanda Museum across the road which houses some exquisite bronzes of the 9th and 10th centuries, Pala dynasty, and other remains excavated at the site.

The beautiful Thai temple and the Nava Nalanda Mahavihara, a centre for research in Pali and Buddhist studies, are 2 kms form the main site.

Getting There

By Road

Patna - 90 kms
Bodh Gaya - 80 kms
Rajgir - 11 kms

Nearest Railhead

Bhakhtiyarpur - 38 kms on the Delhi-Howrah main line

Nearest Airport

Patna - 93 kms

Patna

From the point of entry into India at one of the four metros, Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai, or Mumbai it is best for the visitor to travel to either Patna in Bihar or Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, before proceeding to the 4 sacred Buddhist sites.

They are both well connected by air and rail to all the metros and make ideal gateways for visiting the sacred sites. Patna and Varanasi, the ancient Indian towns of Pataliputra and Kashi were also thriving townships during the Buddha's lifetime.

Patna- Pataliputra

Patna, the state capital of Bihar, situated on the banks of the Ganga is a major entry point for pilgrims wishing to travel in the footsteps of the Buddha. Patna is well connected by air, rail and road to Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai and Varanasi.

Bihar

Bihar derives its name from vihara, meaning Buddhist monastery, as there were once a number of Buddhist monasteries in Bihar. Bodh Gaya, Rajgir and Nalanda in the south and Vaishali in the north, formed a significant part of the Buddhakshetra or the domain of the Great Master's spiritual pursuits.

Pataligram

As the Lord traversed the dusty plains, spreading his message, he had to cross the mighty river Ganga and a small town that stood on its banks, Pataligram. It commanded the river traffic providing endless trade opportunities. The Magadha monarchs decided to move their capital here, from neighbouring Rajgir in the 6th century B.C. King Ajatashatru stated building a fort here which the Buddha saw in his last days and he made a prophecy-that of all the famous places, busy marts and centres of commerce, Pataligram will be the greatest, but three dangers will threaten it always- fire, flood and feud. It holds true even today.

The humble Pataligram blossomed into Pataliputra, the mighty capital of the Magadha Empire. From the 6th century BC to the 4th century AD, under the two major dynasties, the Mauryas and Guptas, Pataliputra reached its zenith.

Foreign emissaries like Megasthenes from Greece and Chinese scholar pilgrims like Fa Hien, recount the architectural grandeur and material prosperity of this great city.

What brought far more enduring renown to Pataliputra and to the Mauryan Empire was Emperor Ashoka (260 BC - 239 BC) who spread the Master's message of peace and non-violence, compassion and love, far and wide. The third Buddhist Council was held in Pataliputra under his patronage.

A massive flood in the river Sonebhadra in the later half of the 6th century AD and subsequent Hun invasions devastated the city. In the 16th century, under the Afghan king, Sher Shah Suri, it partly regained its lost glory. In the 19th century it came under the political suzerainty of the British who gave it the trapping of a typical colonial township and renamed it Patna.

Modern Patna

Modern Patna is a densely populated, ever-expanding metropolis stretching for over 15 kms, along the south banks of the Ganga. The sprawling ground called Gandhi Maidan forms the hum of this city. Most of the shopping complexes, hotels, offices, schools, colleges and hospitals are located in this area.

Nothing much remains of its glorious of its glorious past except the ruins of Pataliputra that can be seen in Kumrahar about 6 kms form Gandhi Maidan. The remains of a massive assembly hall with bases of 80 pillars have been excavated at the site, of which only one pillar remains intact. Fa Hien who came here in the 5th century AD found the pillars shining bright as glass.

Patna Museum

Patna Museum, established by the British in 1917, houses more than 50,000 rare and valuable antiquities and art objects. The most prized possession here is the Holy Relic Casket containing the sacred ashes of the Buddha, unearthed in Vaishali.

Of special interest in Patna Museum are the extensive sections on stone sculptures on the ground floor, especially the Buddha and Bodhisattva figures, and narrative panels in blue schist stone of the Gandhara School. Among the best pieces found here are the black basalt stone figures of Avalokiteshwara, Maitreya and the Buddha discovered at the Vishnupur in Gaya District.

Golghar

Less than half a kilometre from Gandhi Maidan is Golghar, a mammoth concrete granary built by the British, susbsquent to the great famine of 1770. Two spiral staircases from either side lead to the top, which affords a panoramic view of the Ganga and the town.

At Chimni Ghat stands the Patthar ki Masjid, built in 1621 by Parwez Shah, a son of the Mughal emperor, Jehangir, when he was the governor of Bihar.

Patna Sahib

Gurudwara Har Mandir Sahib, popularly known as Patna Sahib, the sacred shrine of the Sikhs, is 11 kms from the Gandhi Maidan. The site is hallowed as the birthplace of the 10th Guru of the Sikhs, Guru Gobind Singh.

Across the road is the Jalan Museum, which stands on the site of Sher Shah's fort and today houses a private art collection. It can be visited only with prior permission. Between Patna and Patna Sahib is Gulzarbagh, where the opium factory and the storehouses of the British were located. It now houses the Government Printing Press.

Rajgir

The capital of the Magadhan kingdom

The meandering river Banganga and five hills ensconce picturesque Rajgir, ancient Rajgriha (literally, the abode of kings). During the lifetime of the Buddha this was the capital of the powerful Magadhan kingdom, ruled by the virtuous king Bimbisara. The hills and caves surrounding Rajagriha were home to spiritual teachers, ranging from the materialism of the early Charavaka School to the metaphysics of Upanishadic philosophers. Like many others in search of Truth, Prince Siddhartha, after he renounced his royal heritage came to this city to seek the path of salvation.

Siddhartha overwhelmed the citizens of Rajagriha with his serenity and grace. Even the king went to meet the ascetic and was amazed to learn that he was a kshatriya of royal descent. Bimbisara offered half his kingdom to Siddhartha but all he received was an assurance that when Siddhartha achieved his goal he would return to Rajagriha.

Well connected to other Buddhist sites

Hundred kilometres south east of Patna, Rajgir is connected by an excellent road to Patna as well as to Bodh Gaya,which is 70kms away. The ancient university, Nalanda, is just 11kms from here. The town's many attractions draw both pilgrims and tourists. It is advisable to hire your own vehicle. The town also boasts the largest number of horse drawn carriages or tongas anywhere in India.

Cyclopean walls

Entering Rajgir from Bodh Gaya one glimpses the remains of the Cyclopean walls which extend from the east to the west, from on hill to another. Once 40kms long, these walls encircled the city built by Bimbisara.

Vulture Peak

Off the main road, towards the south are the venerated Griddhakuta Hill, or Vulture Peak, and Ratnagiri. The metalled road follows the path originally laid by Bimbisara as a footway through the jungle.

The Vishwa Shanti Stupa

The Vishwa Shanti Stupa is a marble structure with niches bearing golden images of the Buddha, built by the Nipponza Myohoji sect of Japan. Opposite the Stupa stands the Saddharma Buddha Vihara.

Griddhakuta

A fifteen-minute walk from Vishwa Shanti Stupa leads to Griddhakuta, sanctified by the Master's presence. The strange rock protrusion resembling a vulture's beak probably gave the hill its name. In the rock cut caves here the Buddha spent many rainy seasons, meditating and preaching.

It was at Griddhakuta that the Enlightened One delivered the Lotus Sutra, which promises salvation for all beings. At the hearts of these sutra is the compassion of the Buddha whose concern is with attain Enlightenment, whoever may have folded their hands of uttered name of the Buddha.

The Buddha also delivered the Prajnaparamita or Perfection of Wisdom Sutra at Griddhakuta.

The easy climb down from Griddhakuta Hill crosses the site of Mardakukshi Vihara. The queen tried to get rid of her unborn child when it was prophesied that her son would one day kill his father. The Enlightened one was first brought here when he was wounded by a rock hurled by his envious consin Devadatta. Along the road to the new town built by Ajatashatru are the ruins of Jivakamravana Vihara, the mango grove presented to the Buddha by Jivaka, the royal physician, who cared for the Lord after Devadatta injured him. Stone foundations of large elliptical halls and subsidiary rooms suggest the existence of a large monastery.

Ajatshatru eembraces the faith

Across the road are the remains of the jail where Bimbisara was imprisoned and killed by his son, Ajatashatru. From here the unfortunate king could see the Master as he meditated on Griddhakuta. Ajatashatru, along with Devadatta, had conspired to take the life of the Lord by letting loose a mad elephant. But the Lord tamed the wild elephant. But the Lord tamed the wild elephant which stood still, overcome by the Lord's serene visage. After killing his father, Ajatashatru was filled with remorse and later embraced the faith.

A couple of kilometres away is Venuvana Vihara or the Monastery of the Bamboo Grove. This was Bimbisara's first offering to Lord Buddha. Close by is the Karanda Tank where the Buddha bathed.

On the road leading to Nalanda can be seen the ruins of Ajatashatru Fort. Towards the west, excavations have revealed the ruins of Ajatashatru Stupa, built over his share of the relics of the Buddha. Rajagriha sank into oblivion when Ajatashatru's son, Udayin, shifted the capital to Pataliputra (modern Patna).

Rajgir is also famous for its seven hot sulphur springs, Satadhara. Situated at the foot of Vaibhava Hill it is a ten minute walk from Venuvana. The hot springs are a part of the Lakshminarayan Temple complex.

On the hills above are the Pippala caves, hewn into the stone platform, popularly known as Jarasandh ki Baithak after the mythical Hindu king Jarasandh. A rocky path from Pippala caves leads to the seven caves of Saptaparni, where the First Buddhist Council was held to codify the teachings of the Great Master.

Rajgir - sacred to the followers of the Jain religion

Vardhaman Mahavira, the 24th Tirthankara , spent 14 rainy seasons here and many of the hilltops are crowned with Jain temples. A short drive from Venuvana Vihara leads to Virayatna, a Jain ashram, with a residential area and a museum. The cylindrical Jain shrine of the Maniyar Math is decorated with stucco figures. The Sonebhandar caves were built a short distance from Maniyar Math by the Jain saint Vairadeva.

Getting There

By Road

Patna - 100 kms
Bodh Gaya - 70 kms
Nalanda - 11 kms

Nearest Railhead

Bhakhtiyarpur - 54 kms on the Delhi-Howrah main line

Nearest Airport

Patna - 100 kms

Sarnath

The presence of the Great Teacher permeates the quiet ruins of Sarnath. The still air carries the fragrance of incense and flowers and the chants of the monks. Deer wander among the ruins and spiders weave huge spreading webs in the grass that shimmers at dawn, spangled with dew.

The serene city

Sarnath is only 10 kms from Varanasi, the holy city of the Hindus. After the frenetic volatility of Varanasi, also called Benaras and Kashi, Sarnath welcomes you with a serene smile.

In search of the abandoned ascetics

After Sakyamuni gained Enlightenment under the Bodhi tree on the banks of the Nairanjana river, he walked for over 250 kms from Bodh Gaya, crossed the Ganga crossed the Ganga by ferry to reach the ghats of Kashi. He was searching for the five companions who had abandoned him at Rajgir. The five ascetics deserted him when Gautama forsook the path of self-mortification because they felt that spiritual salvation was not possible through any other means.

The Buddha found the five ascetics at a deer park in the outskirts of the city. The park was called Rishipattana or Issipattana after the rishis of sages who come to meditate under its shady trees. Its other name was Mrigadaya or deer sanctuary, because a king of Varanasi had gifted the land as a safe haven for deer. The modern name of Sarnath is derived from the name of the Bodhisattva, Saranganatha.

The blessed one met his old companions who were the first to hear him unfold his path to Enlightenment path and the Middle Way. This first sermon is called Dharmachakrapravartana , or Turning of the wheel of Law.

The Sangha

At Sarnath the Buddha founded the Sangha with his five old companions as his first disciples. It was also here that Yasa, the son of a rich merchant of Kashi, renounced his life of worldly pleasures to become Sakyamuni's disciple. Kondanna, leader of the first convents, described the moment of his realisation: Lo! he hath passed with vigour out and on; Sloughed off hath he the dyings and the births, Wholly accomplishing the life sublime.

Thereafter for 45 years the Lord walked the dusty plains of northern India, touching the lives of millions with his teachings. However he did not forget Sarnath. He came back to the Deer park to meditate during the months of the next monsoon and for many other such retreats.

The Ashoka Pillar

Sarnath gained eminence during the reign of Emperor Ashoka. The Ashoka pillar and its famous lion capital were discovered in 1904. Later Saka and Kushan monarchs also patronised Buddhist monks and promoted Buddhist art in Sarnath.

Invasion brings its downfall

However in the 12th century both Varanasi and Sarnath faced the first onslaught or Muslim invasion. After Qutbuddin Aibak's attack in 1194, the thriving monastery in the Sarnath lay in ruins, and the few monks who survived, fled.

Sarnath never rose again. The faith survived other countries but Sarnath no longer echoed to the chants of the monks.

Seven hundred years later, in 1834, a British archaeological team led by Alexander Cunningham rediscovered Sarnath, opening a window to a forgotten period of India's ancient history.

Today the ruined stupas, broken walls of monastery cells and statues within the niches of the walls, lie within stretches of emerald lawns.

Dhamekh Stupa

The most impressive sight in Sarnath is the looming pile of the Dhamekh Stupa, possibly built around 500AD. It was built at the site of many earlier constructions as excavations reveal brickwork from much earlier periods. Dhamekh Stupa is a solid cylindrical tower, 33 metres in height. The borders have delicately carved geometrical and floral patterns and the figures of humans and birds.

The base of the Stupa is made of stone with the upper areas of brickwork which probably once had a carve stone fencing.

The present name Dhamekh shows some connection with Buddha's Dharma. This might indeed have been the stupa built by Ashoka to mark the spot where the Buddha preached the Dharmachakrapravanrtana for the first time to the five ascetics.

Dharmarajika Stupa

Dharmarajika Stupa marks the site where the Buddha gave his first sermon. It was broken down in the 18th century by an officer of the Maharaja of Benaras who was looking for building material for constructing a bazaar. Alexander Cunningham found a marble casket beneath the stupa during excavations in the late 19th century.

Just behind the Dharmarajika Stupa are the remains of the massive Ashoka Pillar, one of the many that Emperor Ashoka set up at Buddhist sits. It is placed at the spot where the Buddha gave his first sermon and established the Sangha. The monolithic Ashoka Pillar was once crowned with the magnificent Lion Capital, which is now kept in the Sarnath Museum. The four roaring lions face the four cardinal directions symbolising the spread of the Buddha's teachings.

Mulgandhakuti Vihara

Mulgandhakuti Vihara marks the site where the Buddha meditated during his monsoon retreats at Sarnath. Excavations have unearthed a statue of a Bodhisattva from the 1st century AD, and a tablet on which the name of the shrine was carved. In 1922, Anagarika Dharmapala laid the foundation of a temple named Mulgandhakuti Vihara at the site. It enshrines relics of the Buddha which were discovered at Taxila. The interior has frescoes painted by a Japanese artist in 1932-35.

Outside is the Bodhi tree and its spreading branches symbolise the return of Buddhism to India.

Chaukhandi

The first landmark that visitors see on their way to Sarnath from Varanasi is a high mound with the remains of a brick stupa built in the Gupta period. Today the site is called Chaukhandi. It marks the spot where the Buddha first met his five companions on arriving in Sarnath. A Mughal style octagonal tower was added by Govardhan, son of Raja Todar Mal, in 1588, to celebrate a visit by the Mughal Emperor Akbar to the city.

Sarnath Museum

The Sarnath Museum is a treasure trove of Buddhist sculptures, inscriptions and pottery. Some of the finest images of the Buddha and panels depicting important episodes from the life of Sakyamuni can from the Gupta period, carved in the fine-grained Chunar sandstone.

In Sarnath Museum one can see the magnificent Lion Capital, which once crowned the Ashoka pillar at Sarnath and which today is the official symbol of the Indian State.

Mathura School of Art

A fine example of the Mathura School of Art from the Kushan period (1st century AD) is the standing image of the Buddha in red sandstone, with exquisitely carved details. There is also a beautiful image of a serene Buddha, the smiling lips and half shut eyelids creating an aura of compassion and meditative calm. Six figures kneel at his feet and the decorated halo behind his head has two flying celestial figures among the floral patterns.

Mahabodhi Society

The library of the Mahabodhi Society possesses an excellent collection of Buddhist literature and rare manuscripts. There is also a fascinating sculpture shed, which displays finds from past excavations.

All Buddhist nations have their monasteries and temples in Sarnath, built in the indigenous architectural styles of the respective countries.

Excursions

Kaushambi

Kaushambi was the capital of the famous Vatsa Mahajanapada , during the time of the Lord. The Buddha is said to have visited this place in the sixth and ninth years after the Enlightenment and delivered several sermons. He stayed in the Ghositarama Vihara, which has been excavated recently. Hiuen Tsang visited this place after visiting prayag (Allahabad) 54kms away, which continues to be the nearest railhead. Allahabad is well connected by train to Varanasi, which also has the closest airport to Kausbambi.

Festivals

Buddha Poornima, the full moon night in April-May, when the birth of the Buddha is celebrated, is the biggest festival at Sarnath. There are prayers, processions and pageantry, with pilgrims coming from all over the world. A big fair also springs up on the occasion. During the first full moon in November an assembly of monks and scholars celebrate the anniversary of the foundation of the Mulgandhakuti Vihara.

Getting There

By Road

Varanasi - 10 kms
Bodh Gaya via Mohania - 240 kms

Nearest Railhead

Varanasi - 10 kms
Mughal Sarai Junction - 16 kms
Both are well connected with Patna, Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai

Nearest Airport

Varanasi Airport at Babatpur - 22 kms from Varanasi

Sravasti

Sravasti (ancient Savatthi), the capital of Kosala Mahajanapada , was the biggest town in the Gangetic plains during the Buddha's lifetime. Sravasti was host to the Master for 25 years during the annual vassavasa (rain retreat) when the Sangha congregated at one place.

Location

Situated in Gonda district in eastern Uttar Pradesh, called Sahet-Mahet. The most convenient way to reach Sravasti is via Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, which is well connected by air and rail to all parts of India.

During the time of Sakyamuni, Sudatta, a rich and pious merchant, lived in Sravasti. While on a visit to Rajgir, he heard the Buddha's sermon and decided to become the Lord's disciple. But he was caught in dilemma and asked the Lord whether he could become a follower without forsaking worldly life. To his query, the Master replied that it was enough that he followed his vocation in a righteous manner.

Jetavana Vihara

Sudatta invited the Lord to Sravasti and began to look for a suitable place to blind a vihara. A beautiful park at the southern edge of Sravasti attracted his attention. The park belonged to Jeta, son of the king of Sravati, Prasenjit. Jeta demanded that Sudatta cover the entire park with gold coins. Sudatta painstakingly paved every inch of the land with gold. Then Jeta said that since the trees were left uncovered they belonged to him. But finally, he had a change of heart and donated valuable wood to build the Vihara. The park came to be known as Jetavana Vihara after Prince Jeta's donations to the Sangha.

One of the most beautiful spots in Jetavana is under the Anandabodhi tree. An eternal witness to the vicissitudes of history, this sacred tree was brought as a cutting from the Bodhi tree in Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka, which itself grew from a sapling of the original Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya.

Sudatta came to be known as Anathapindika (the incomparable alms giver). He built a magnificent, seven-storied vihara whose grandeur was commented upon by Chinese travellers several centuries later. Jetavana continues to attract pilgrims from all over the world who come here to pray and meditate in its serene atmosphere.

The ruins of Anandakuti and Gandhakuti exude an aure of sacredness because it was here that the Lord stayed during his many visits to Jetavana Vihara. In Sravasti, the Master expounded a major part of the Tripitakas.

It was also in Sravasti that the Lord performed the only miracle of his life in response to a challenge from six non-believers. The Lord levitated on a thousand petalled lotuses, causing fire and water to leap out of his body and multiplied his person in the air.

Close to Jetavana are the Sri Lanka, Chinese, Myanmarese (Burmese) and Thai monasteries and temples. Also worth seeing is the park with a large bell donated by Japanese pilgrims.

Mahet, to the north of Jetavana, was once a heavily fortified city. All that remains are two stupas known locally as Pakki Kuti and Kachchi Kuti; the latter identified as Sudatta's Stupa.

Angulimala

Pakki Kuti is said to be Angulimala's Stupa. Angulimala (literally, necklace of fingers) was a dreaded dacoit who wore a necklace of fingers that were chopped from his victims. One day in a fit of brutal rage he tried to kill his own mother. It was at this moment that the Lord met Angulimala and Sakyamuni's enlightening words had a calming effect on his stone heart. Angulimala decided to give up his evil ways and follow the path of the Lord.

Less than a kilometre away are the ruins of a medieval Jain temple, revered by the Jains as the birthplace of the third Jain Tirthankara, Swayambunatha.

Excursions

Sankissa is identified with the present village of Basantpur in Farrukhabad district of Uttar Pradesh. Situated on the banks of river Kali, Sankissa is most easily accessible form Agra which 175 kms away on the Agra-Mainpuri road. The nearest railhead is Pakhna, which is 11.5 kms away.

Sankissa is the place where the Buddha descended from heaven along with Lord Brahma and Devraj Indra after giving a discourse his mother, Mayadevi. Emperor Ashoka erected a pillar with an elephant capital to mark this holy spot.

Getting There

By Road

Lucknow vis Bahraich - 151 kms
Kapilavastu via Naugarh - 147 kms
Varanasi via Lucknow - 401 kms

Nearest Railhead

Balrampur - 19 kms

Nearest Airport

Lucknow - 151 kms

Vaishali

Five years after the Enlightenment in Bodh Gaya, Lord Buddha came to Vaishali, the capital of one the first republican states in the Ganga, Vaishali is bound by the hills of Nepal on the north and the river Gandak on the west.

The Lichchavi nobility came to receive the Enlightened One with a cavalcade of elephants and chariots bedecked with gold. As the Lord set foot on the soil of Vaishali, lightning and thunder followed by a heavy downpour purged the plague-infected city. The Buddha preached the Ratna Sutra to those assembled, and eighty-four thousand people embraced the new faith.

For the first women were ordained into the Sangha

Seeking to join the order, the Buddha's foster mother, Mahaprajapati Gautami, along with 500 Sakyan women made a pilgrimage by foot from Kapilavastu to Vaishali. Three times the Lord refuses their entreaties. Ultimately they shaved their heads, donned the orange robes and beseeched the Lord once again. The Enlightened One was finally persuaded to admit the women as bhikshunis or nuns.

Vaishali is linked to Patna, 60 kms away, by the 5.5 kms long Mahatma Gandhi Bridge across the Ganga. Leaving the crowded market place of this small district town, the metalled road leads to the village of Basarh, which the British archaeologist, Alexander Cunnigham, identified as the ancient Vaishali. There is no local transport and visitors are advised to take their own vehicles for sightseeing.

Kutagarshala

Kutagarshala Vihara is 3 kms form the main town. It was built by the Lichchavis for Sakhamuni. Known as Buddha Stupa 2, this site has revealed extensive remains of a monastery with an open courtyard and verandah. A large tank and the Kutagarshala Chaitya can be seen in the south.

It was at Kutagarshala Vihara that a monkey took the Lord's alms bowl and climbed a tree to gather honey for him. The Buddha accepted his humble offering and the monkey in great joy, leaping from tree to tree, accidentally fell and was impaled on the stump of a tree. Dying a noble death, the monkey went to heaven. Kutagarshala Vihara is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm. Entry fee Rs 2.

Among the precious archaeological finds is the relic casket containing the ashes of the Buddha now preserved in the Patna Museum. In the north is the Ashoka Pillar with a bell capital and large brick stupa, originally built by the Emperor to mark the site where the site where Buddha delivered his last discourse.

Amrapali

It was also at Vaishali that Amrapali, the famous courtesan, earned the respect of the Sangha and a place in history, with her generous donations. The neighbouring village of Amvara is said to be the site of Amrapali's mango grove. Once when the Lord was visiting Vaishali, Amrapali invited him to her house and the Lord graciously accepted the offer. An overjoyed Amrapali, returning on her chariot, raised a cloud of dust. The Lichchavi princes going to meet the Buddha got enveloped in the dust and learnt of the Buddha's forthcoming visit to her house. The Lichchavi princes wanted to exchange Amrapali's honour for one hundred thousand gold coins. Amrapali steadfastly refused their offer and after the Buddha's visit to her house she was purged of all impurities. She gifted her mango grove to the Sangha. Amrapali joined the order after realising the transitory nature of all things, including beauty.

His last sermon

Vaishali is also renowned as the place where the Buddha delivered his last sermon. Following a severe illness, the Master asked Ananda to assemble all the bhikshus. The Enlightened One told the gathering that the Mahaparinirvana (final extinction) was imminent. The Great Master asked the monks to spread the Dharma in order to bring about the good and happiness of many.

Going back to the town, a little way off the main road, can be seen the ruins of the mythical King Vishala's fort, from which Vaishali derived its name. Vaishali also finds mention in the Hindu epic, Ramayana.

Abhishek Pushkarini

A kilometre away is Abhishek Pushkarini, the coronation tank. The sacred waters of the tank anointed the elected representatives of Vaishali. Next to it stands the Japanese temple and the Vshwa Shanti Stupa (World Peace Pagoda) built by the Nipponzan Myohoji sect of Japan. A small part of the Buddha's relics found in Vaishali have been enshrined in the foundation and in the chhatra of the Stupa.

Near the coronation tank is Stupa 1 or the Relic Stupa. Here the Lichchavis reverentially encased on of the eight portions of the Master's relics, which they received after the Mahaparinirvana.

The Site Museum

In the north is the Site Museum. It has an excellent collection dating from 3rd century BC to 6th century AD. The terracotta monkey heads in different styles are interesting. The Site Museum is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm. It is closed on Fridays. Entry is free.

After his last discourse the Awakened One set out for Kushinagar, but the Lichchavis kept following him. Buddha gave them his alms bowl but they still refused to return. The Master created an illusion of a river in spate which compelled them to go back. This site can be identified with Deora in modern Kesariya village, where Ashoka later built a stupa.

Ananda, the favourite disciple of the Buddha, attained Nirvana in the midst of the Ganga outside Vaishali.

Taking Buddha to the world

A hundred years after the Mahaparinirvana, the second Buddhist Council was held in Vaishali. The momentous results of this Council were the dispatch of missionaries to different parts of the world for the propagation of the Dharma.

Getting There

By Road

Patna - 56 kms
Muzaffarpur - 36 kms
Hajipur - 35 kms

Nearest Railhead

Hajipur - 35 kms on the North Eastern Railway

Nearest Airport

Patna - 56 kms

Varanasi - Location

Varanasi stands on the west bank of the river Ganga as it flows through the north Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is at a distance of 764 kms from Delhi, 678 kms from Calcutta, and Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal is a 12-hour drive away. Good metalled roads to the pilgrim site of Sarnath connect Varanasi, which is only 10 kms away, as well as to Lumbini, Kapilavastu, Kushinagar and Sravasti.

Over twenty-five centuries ago, a sage travelled 200 kms from Bodh Gaya, where he had attained Nirvana to reach the ghats of Varanasi of Kashi as it was then called. The city had seen saffron clad spiritual teachers before him, who came here, drawn by its magnetic, inexplicable spiritual power. The Sage was looking for five Hindu ascetics, old companions from whom he had parted, because they had insisted that the only path to salvation was through self-mortification. The Buddha found them at Rishipattana, the Deer park near Kashi, and gave them the gift of the spiritual knowledge which he had attained since he parted with them, and they became his first followers, and the first members of the Sangha.

Varanasi

A time would come when the Buddha's teachings would travel to lands he had never seen, his image worshipped in temples and his name chanted in monasteries. However for Kashi, that summer two thousand five hundred years ago, he was just another pilgrim.

Varanasi, Benares, Kashi, they have called this city by many names. Placed between the Varuna and the Assi rivers it is Varanasi. It is the spiritual pilgrimage that is like a luminous beacon to Hindus and for them it has always been Kashi, the city of light. They believe bathing in the river Ganga here washes away their sins. It is also Avimukta, the city that is never forsaken by Lord Shiva, its ruling deity. It is Shiva's favourite city, his Anandavana of Garden of Bliss. And finally, it is also the Mahashmashana, the great cremation ground.

One of the oldest cities in the world

Living with the great questions of birth and death, Varanasi has never bothered to record its history. Its beginning are lost in the mists of time, no one cares to remember when this city began. It was there when Jerusalem, Beijing and Athens rose and it has watched great cities like Nineveh and Babylon get swallowed by the sand. It is one of the oldest living cities in the world.

On the banks of the Holy river

The best introduction to Varanasi is from the river. The city stands by a curve of the Ganga River, with the stone steps of the numerous Ghats sweeping down to the water. At dawn, hire a boat and drift past the Ghats and the city will float past like a hand-operated bioscope. Begin from Dasashawamedha, one of the holiest Ghats, where the gods are said to have performed the ten-horse sacrifice. The river will be thronged with early morning bathers standing chest deep in the water as they raise their faces to the rising sun and recite the sacred mantra. One can see the perpetual movement of the pilgrims on the steps, the vivid colours of their clothes glistening against the pale gold water, the triangular flags fluttering atop the temple spires.

A view of the ghats

The panorama of the ghats is one of the most arresting images of Varanasi. As you float down the river some will be crowded with bathers, at others a solitary, ash-smeared sadhu with matted hair will be communing with the sun. Another ghat will be full of washer men slapping clothes on flat stones in a synchronised swinging of arms.

A blue grey have of drifting smoke covers the most fascinating ghat of all, Manikarnika. Only those fortunate to have died in Varanasi have the privilege to be cremated here. To die here is to be freed from the cycle of life and death. And with the city's usual penchant for myth making they named this ghat Manikarnika, after the Goddess Parvati's earring which fell down while bathing. On top of the steps is a large tank, the manikarnika kund that Lord Vishnu is supposed to have dug with his perspiration. Vishnu's feet are set in a marble pedestal beside it, called the Charanapaduka.

At the heart of this city is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the holiest shrine of Lord Shiva. Here he is also called Vishweshwara, the lord of the world and the city is said to sit atop his trishul (trident).

In food shops and narrow alleys

The old localities of Varanasi are a labyrinth of narrow lanes, crowded with people, cycle, and ambling cows. Some of them are so narrow even a cycle rickshaw cannot pass through. The streetcorner food shops make trays of sweets, the famous creamy rabri or thickened milk and glasses of cool thandai and lassi. The paan shops offer a variety of paans (betel) with a subtle mix of masala. You have to walk down the narrow Vishwanath Gail to the temple. It is a serpentine alley lined with shops selling brass and trinket, silks and flower garlands and crowded with pilgrims. A Shiva Temple has stood here for 1500 hundred years but the present temple is not an old one because over the centuries it has been destroyed many times by Muslim invaders. The Mughal Emperor Akbar sponsored the rebuilding of a great temple to Shiva but his great grandson Aurangzeb destroyed it again and built a mosque at the site, which now stands beside it. But the traditions of this city go too deep to be uprooted, it has always possessed the will to endure and the temple rose once again.

Benaras Hindu University

Madan Mohan Malviya founded Benaras Hindu University early this century. He wanted to combine Varanasi's great tradition of Sanskrit scholarship with modern education. Bharat Kala Bhavan located in the university Campus has a good collection of artefacts and medieval miniature paintings. Also within the campus is the new Vishwanath temple in pristine marble with carved figures and screens. It is said to be a replica of the temple destroyed by Aurangzeb. Varanasi's second museum is in the Ramnager Fort complex across the river.

Varanasi is a city that enjoys the pleasures of this world as much as it thinks of the next. Music and dance have a long history here. Great Hindustani classical musicians like Ustad Bismillah khan, Pandit Ravi Shankar, Siddeshwari Devi, among others, have come from these lanes. The people have an inimical blend of spiritualism and worldliness in their character and an ability to laugh at life's vissicitudes.

The weavers of Varanasi

The weavers of Varanasi have been creating exquisite silks and brocades for centuries. Once they were the prized goods beings carried on the silk Route to Europe and to China. Even today Indian brides get married in the silk sarees woven in Varanasi. It is said that the muslin shroud that covered the Buddha after his Mahaparinirvana was from Varanasi, and it was woven so fine it would not absorb oil.

Queen Mahamaya's dream

On the full moon night of Vaisakha (April-may), Mahamaya, the chief queen of king Suddhodana of Kapilavastu, had a beautiful dream. In the dream she saw a six-tusked elephant enter her side as she lay sleeping. The king summoned sixty four Brahman astrologers to interpret the dream. They concurred that the queen would give birth to a son who would acquire world renown.

Queen Mahamaya bore the child for ten months and one day expressed a desire to go to her maternal home. The royal entourage camped in the beautiful Lumbini grove, the royal park near Kapilavastu. When the Queen reached out for a branch of a Sal tree the child miraculously came out of her right side.

Hinduism Pilgrimages

The major religion of India is one of the oldest living religions in the world. Evolving in India where 83% of the population is Hindu. Hinduism in India affects family life, food, dress and architecture. The caste system as applied to Hindus determines their way of life and often even their occupations. With traveling becoming easier as each day passes Hindus have settled throughout the world and have taken their faith with them. Today Hinduism is found in many countries, the Hindu literature and philosophy have influenced people throughout the world.

Pilgrimage or Tirthatan is the oldest way of traveling from one place to other in India. From the first instance of civilization to the present day, millions of Hindus leave their home in search of salvation. The destination could be any place with a legend attached. From the high hills of Himalayas to small islands in Arabian Sea and Bay of Bengal and from the fertile plains of Northern India to the Southern Peninsula, Hindu pilgrimage centers are in thousands and multiplying. We are giving you information about some of the most important out of them.

Allahabad

Location : Uttar Pradesh
Attractions : Kumbh Mela, Sangam Bath, Ardh Kumbh
Languages : Hindi, English
Allahabad, sacred city of Hinduism was formerly called 'Prayag' in commemoration of a sacrifice done by Lord Brahma. It is best known as host to the mind-boggling number of Kumbh pilgrims who visit this endearing city every 12 years. According to Hindu mythology for the 'Prakrishta Yagna' Lord Brahma chose a piece of land on the earth on the confluence of the three rivers - the Ganga, the Yamuna, and the mytical Sarswati would merge into a confluence. The land being surrounded by these 3 rivers would serve as the prime and central altar and came to be known as 'Prayag' today known as Allahabad.

The most sacred spot in Allahabad is Triveni Sangam, the confluence of three of the holiest rivers of the Hindu mythology, the holy Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati. Devout Hindus from all over India come to this sacred pilgrimage point to offer prayers and take a dip in the holy waters. It is believed that a holy dip taken at the Sangam washes away all sins.

Lord Brahma performed the Prakrista Yajna here. That is how it received its ancient name, Prayag. Allahabad is also called Tirtha-Raja, king of all holy places. It is said that Lord Rama visited Allahabad when in exile.
Location
Allahabad is one of the oldest cities in India. It is located 135 km west of Varanasi, at the confluence of India's two most important rivers-the Yamuna and Ganges. It is 585 km southeast of Delhi and 160 km south of Ayodhya. The main spiritual reason for coming here is to take bath in the Sangam, to confluence (where rivers meet), of the Yamuna, Ganges, and the underground Saraswati Rivers. It is one of the major pilgrimage sites in all of India.

How to Get There
By Air : The nearest airports are Varanasi, Kanpur and Lucknow.
By Rail : The city has direct rail connections with important cities like Delhi, Kolkata, Patna, Gwalior, Meerut, Chennai, Mumbai, Varanasi and Guwahati.
By Road : Allahabad, on National Highway 2 and 27, is connected to the rest of the country by good, motorable all-weather roads.

Unique Pilgrimage Attraction of Allahabad
Kumbha-Mela

Kumbha -mela is held here every 12 years. It also takes place in three other holy places in India every 12 years-Haridwar, Ujjain and Nasik. The Kumbha-mela in Prayag (Allahabad) is considered especially auspicious. It draws about 15 million people and is the largest attended event in the world. This is a very interesting event. There are several especially auspicious bathing days. A huge temporary city is created for the millions of pilgrims that arrive for the most auspicious bathing days.

Every 6 years there is an Ardha-mela (half mela), which draws about 7 million people. Each year there is a regular Mela during the month of Magha, January-February, which draws one or two million people. The next Kumbha-mela is January, 2001. One of the most auspicious bathing days is Amavasya, the new moon day.

Kumbha-mela is like a "Yogi Convention", where yogis, sadhus(saints), holy people, and pilgrims come from all over India. Many sadhus come from various holy places, the most remote forests, and mountain caves in the Himalayas. The most famous are the Naga Babas, Siva worshipers who are completely naked. They cover their bodies only with ash and wear their hair in dreadlocks.

On the most auspicious bathing days there is a big parade, and the bathing order is very strictly observed. Not only are there especially auspicious days, but there are especially auspicious times of the day to bathe, and people are willing to die to bathe at the most auspicious time. The first to enter the water are the Naga Babas, who arrive dancing with enthusiasm. Then each different religious group enters the water in a prearranged order.

Pilgrimage Attractions
Holy Ganga

The holiest of all the rivers, Ganga or the Ganges is a perennial river, which is held in high regard by the Hindus. The Ganga River has an exalted position in the Hindu ethos. The Gangotri Glacier, a vast expanse of ice five miles by fifteen, at the foothills of the Himalayas (14000 ft) in north Uttar Pradesh is the source of Bhagirathi, which joins with Alaknanda (origins nearby), to form Ganga at the craggy, canyon-carved town of Devprayag.

Sangam Bath

This is where the Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati meet. This place is considered to be the most important holy bathing place in India. The muddy-colored Ganges in shallower and more rapid. The Yamuna is bluer and deeper. The most auspicious time to bathe in the Sangam is during Kumbha -mela. It is also especially auspicious to bathe here during the month Magh (January-February).

Hanuman Temple

Hanuman is in a reclining posture, a few feet below the ground, instead of his usual standing posture. It is said that every year the Ganges floods until it touches the sleeping Hanuman's feet and then it starts receding. This temple is located by the Sangam side of the Fort and is busy small temple open to non-Hindus. There are nice carvings on the nearby Sri Adhi Shankara Temple, which has a Sri Tirupati Balaji Deity.
Patalpuri Temple (Undying Tree)

It is located through a small doorway, in the wall of the fort, on the way to the boats that go to the Sangam. It is an underground temple with many different deities carved in stone. The Akshayavata Tree is said to never die, even when the entire world is destroyed. It is located in the underground temple. The tree is on a deep niche, above an underground hole that is said to lead to the Triveni.

Bharadwaja Ashram

This ashram is mentioned in the Ramayana. Allahabad University now occupies the place where the ashram of Bharadwaja Rishi and his 10,000 disciples is said to have been located. There are the temples of Bharadwajeswara Mahadeva, Rishi Bharadwaja, and Kali here. It is said that Lord Rama and Sita visited this place when they began their 14-year exile.

Sri Rupa Gaudiya Math

There is a Gaudiya Math temple, the Sri Rupa Gaudiya Math, on South Mallaca Street, in the Madhavapur area. This temple is by the Ganges River on the way to the Sangam from downtown. Srila Prabhupada took initiation here from Srila Bhaktisiddhanta Saraswati Maharaja.

Excursions
At Ramchaura-Shringverpur(40 km.), on the bank of the Ganges, there is a platform called Ram Chabutara, which marks the spot where Lord Rama is supposed to have stayed before going to the forest in exile. It is said that before Lord Rama corssed the Ganges here, the boatman washed His feet. There are also temples dedicated to Panchmukhi (five-faced) Hanuman and Shring Rishi. Lakshagriha (45km) is said to be the place where the house of lac of the Pandavas was located. A big mound marks this spot.

Festivals
Kumbh Mela - Held every 12 years.
Ardh Kumbh Mela -Held every six years
Dussehra -Dussehra time in Allahabad is an experience, unrivalled by any other in the rest of northern India. During this period, in the evening and at night, beautifully decorated tableau are taken out from different localities, depicting various scenes from Indian mythology.

Amarnath Yatra

One of the most important events during July / August is Amarnath Yatra, the Holy Pilgrimage made in obeisance to the Lord Shiva. This is an annual event when thousands of Hindus from different corners of the Globe visit Amarnath caves. The pilgrims trek from Pahalgam to these caves and worship the great ice Lingam. Legend has it that Shiva recounted to Parvati the secret of creation in a cave in Amarnath. Unknown to them, a pair of mating doves eavesdropped on this conversation and having learned the secret, are reborn again and again, and have made the cave their eternal abode. Many pilgrims report seeing the doves-pair when they trek the arduous route to pay obeisance before the ice-lingam (the phallic symbol of Shiva). This is an event you certainly will talk about for the rest of your life.
The Legend - There is a famous Rigvedic Verse that says "Ekam Sat " that is "There is one Being, the sages call Him by many names." The God (Parmeshwar) has three deities who carry on the world. This is known as Holy Trinity. Brahma- the creator, Vishnu - the perpetuator of life and Shiva (Mahesh) -the purifier and perpetuator of good and destroyer of evil. Rig Veda refers to Shiva as Rudra as in its following verse. "We Worship Tryambaka (Rudra), Who spread Fragrance and Increases Nourishment, May He release me, like the cucumber from its stem, From Mortal Life, but not From Immorality. "(Rig Veda Mandal VII Sukta 59 and Mantra 12)
The Yajurveda describes Shiva as ascetic warrior whose robe is of Deer Skin and He carries Trishul. According to the verse Satyam, Shivam ,Sundaram ,the life is described as having three facets Truth (Satyam), Good (Shivam) and the Beautiful (Sundaram). Shiva is a living God. The most Sacred and ancient books of India, the Rig Veda narrates His presence in the hymns. Vedic myths, rituals and even astronomy testify to His existence from the dawn of time .The Mohinjodaro and Harappa findings confirm Shiva worship in the ancient India. According to the older scriptures, He has three places of His residence. One is Kailash Parvat another is Lohit Giri under which Brahamputra flows and third is Muzwan Parvat.
Significance of Amarnath Cave - The Legend about the importance of Amarnath Cave is as follows: This is the cave which was chosen by Lord Shiva for narrating the secrets of immortality and creation of Universe to Maa Parvati ji. The story goes like this. Centuries ago Maa Parvati asked Shivji to let her know why and when He started wearing the beads of heads (Mund Mala). Bhole Shankar replied whenever you are born I add one more head in my beads. Maa Parvati said," My Lord, my body is destroyed every time and I die again and again, but you are Immortal. Please let me know the secret of this." Bhole Shankar replied that it is due to Amar Katha."
Maa Parvati insisted that she should be told that secret. For long Shiva continued postponing. Finally on consistent demand from Maa Parvati He made up his mind to tell the immortal secret. He started for lonely place where no living being could listen it. He chose Amarnath Cave. In preparation to that He left His Nandi (The Bull which He used to ride) at Pahalgam (Bail gaon). At Chandanwari He released Moon from his hairs (Jataon). At the banks of Lake Sheshnag He released the snakes. He decided to leave his Son Ganesha at Mahagunas Parvat (Mahaganesh Hill). At Panjtarni, Shivji left the Five Elements behind (Earth, Water, Air, Fire and Sky) which make living being. He is the Lord of these elements. It is believed that as a symbol of sacrificing the earthly world, Shivaji and Maa Parvati had Tandav Dance. After leaving behind all these, Bhole Shankar enters the Holy Amarnath Cave along with Parvati Maa.
Lord Shiva took his Samadhi on the Deer Skin and meditated. To ensure that no living being is able to hear the Immortal Tale, He created Rudra named Kalagni and ordered him to spread fire to eliminate every living thing in and around the Holy Cave. After this He started narrating the secret of immortality to Maa Parvati. But as a matter of chance one egg which was lying beneath the Deerskin remained protected. It is believed to be non living and more over it was protected by Shiva-Parvati Asan (Bed). The pair of pigeons, which were born out of this egg, became immortal having listened the secret of immortality (Amar Katha). Many pilgrims report seeing the pair of pigeons when they trek the arduous route to pay their obeisance before the Ice-Lingam (the phallic symbol of Shiva).
Discovery of Holy Cave - The story narrated by people about the discovery of this Holy Cave is of a Gujjar (shepherd) Buta Malik. He is given the credit of discovering this Holy Cave. Story goes like this, that a saint gave Buta Malik a bag full of Coal. On reaching his home when he opened the bag, to his utter surprise the bag was full of gold coins. This made him overwhelmed with joy. He ran to thank the Saint. But, what he found was that the Saint had disappeared. Instead, he found The Holy Cave and Shiva Lingam there in . He announced the discovery of this to the Villagers. Then onwards this has become the sacred place of Pilgrimage.
The ancient epics narrate another story, which goes like this. The valley of Kashmir was under water. It was a big lake. Kashyap Rishi drained the water through number of rivers and rivulets. In those days Bhrigu Rishi came that way on a visit to the Himalaya. He was the first to have Darshans of this Holy Cave. When people heard of the Lingam, Amarnath for them became Shiva's abode and a Centre of pilgrimage.
Since then Lakhs of devotees perform the pilgrimage through tough terrain and avail eternal happiness. The trek to Amarnath, in the month of sharavan (July-August) has the devout flock to this incredible shrine, where the image of Shiva, in the form of a Lingam, is formed naturally of an Ice Stalagmite, which waxes and wanes with the Moon's cycle. By its side are fascinating, two more Ice Lingams, that of Maa Parvati and of their son, Ganesha.
Amarnath is 145 km east of Srinagar in Kashmir. There is an ice Shiva-lingam here that changes size with the seasons, and also as the moon waxes and wanes it becomes bigger and smaller. On the full moon day the lingam is about 6 ft high. Each year on the full moon day of July-August (Sravana) when the Shiva-lingam attains its maximum height there is a festival at this cave temple. It is said that Lord Shiva first appeared on this day.

Location and Access
Location : 145-km From Srinagar, Kashmir
Region Altitude : 4,175m (13,700ft).
Darshan Season : July To August
It is located in a glacial valley at 4,175m (13,700 ft.). The cave is about 150 feet high and 90 feet long. Within the cave there are four or five ice formations that resemble the figures of different gods. The biggest figure is regarded as Shiva (Amarnath). On the left side of the linga is an ice formation called Ganesh, and on the right side is one of Parvati and Bhairava.

The area is covered with snow from September to June. The cave opens only in July and August. This is the rainy season, so pilgrims have to brave the rain to get there. About 25,000 people make this pilgrimage each year. You can also hire ponies and dandies for the trip. It is very crowded during the annual Sravana festival. There is a yearly pilgrimage starting from Srinagar that is led by the Chhari Saheb, the holy sceptre.

How to Get There
Air : Indian Airlines has daily flights to Delhi and Srinagar (depends on weather). There are also flights to Mumbai, Kolkata, Chandigarh, and Leh. The Indian Airlines office (2542-735) is at the Tourist Reception Centre on Vir Marg.
Train : The Shalimar Express departs from Delhi at 4.10 pm and arrives in Jammu at 7 am. There are other trains to and from Delhi. From Jammu there are direct trains to Mumbai, Kolkata. Most buses from Jammu leave between 6 and 7 am, in order to arrive before night. A ticket to Srinagar should be booked in advance. There are buses to Delhi (14 hr), Amritsar (5 hr), and Pathankot (3 hr). From Pathankot you can get a bus to Dharamshala and Dalhousie. Deluxe buses depart from the railway station, usually between 6 and 7 am.

When to take up the Yatra
The Amarnath Yatra is organised every year by the J &K Govt. during the month of Shravan (July and August); the dates however, vary every year looking at the weather conditions and according to Purnima (Raksha Bandhan) in the month of Sharavan (Vikrama Samwat). This year Yatra will be taken up from 08 July 2003 to 08 August 2003.
Yatra to Baba Amarnath Holy Cave for which one has to trek a height of about 14,500 ft is full of thrill and joy .The feeling of divine which is always beneath ones' heart, burst out and one realises 'Moksha' as one attends the Cave and perform the prayer before the Shivlinga. Surrounded by beautiful valleys, mountains, one will always feel His presence on the paradise of the earth, the memory of which hardly vanishes with time a journey that will rediscover the nature and its love, which is always inside, but one has never felt.
Climate
The climatic conditions are very uncertain. Rain or snowfall may take place at any time or place during the Yatra . It is to be particularly noted that abrupt changes in temperature might occur. Sunny weather may turn into rain / snowfall in a short time. The temperature may fall up to -5 degree C.

Ayodhya

Ayodhya, a very holy city and is an important pilgrimage site. Lord Rama was born and had many of His pastimes here. It is said to have once had a perimeter of 96 miles and was the capital of Koshala. It is on the banks of the Gogra (Ghaghara or Saryu) River, bathing in which is supposed to destroy even the sin of killing a Brahmin. On the right bank of the river Ghagra or Saryu, as it is called within sacred precincts, stands the holy city of Ayodhya, believed to be the birth place of lord Rama, the seventh incarnation of lord Vishnu. Ayodhya during ancient times was known as Kosaldesa. The Atharvaveda describes it as "a city built by gods and being as prosperous as paradise itself". The illustrious Ikshvaku of the solar clan (suryavamsa) was the ruling dynasty of this region. Ayodhya is pre-eminently a city of temples yet, all the places of worship here, are not only of Hindu religion. At Ayodhya several religions have grown and prospered simultaneously and also at different periods of time in the past. Remnants of Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Islam can still be found in Ayodhya. According to Jain belief, five tirthankaras were born at Ayodhya, including Adinath (Rishabhadeva), the 1st tirthankar.

Location and Access
Area : 10.24 Sq. km.
Population : 40642 (1991 census)
Season : October - March.

How to Get There
Air : For Ayodhya the nearest airports are Amausi, Bumrauli and Babatpur
Rail : Ayodhya is situated on the broad gauge northern railway line on Mughal Sarai- Lucknow main route. Ayodhya/Faizabad are connected to various parts of the country by rail lines.
Road : Connected by road to several major cities and towns.

Prime Pilgrimage Attractions
Guptar Ghat - The Amarnath Yatra is organised every year by the J &K Govt. during the month of Shravan (July and August); the dates however, vary every year looking at the weather conditions and according to Purnima (Raksha Bandhan) in the month of Sharavan (Vikrama Samwat). This year Yatra will be taken up from 08 July 2003 to 08 August 2003.
Ramkot -The chief place of worship in Ayodhya is the site of the ancient citadel of Ramkot, which stands on an elevated ground in the western part of the city. Although visited by pilgrims through out the year, this sacred place attracts devotees from all over India and abroad, on 'Ramnavami', the day of the lord's birth, which is celebrated with great pomp and show, in the Hindu month of Chaitra (March-April).
The Hanuman Garhi - Situated in the centre of the town, this temple is approachable by a flight of 76 steps. Legend has it that Hanuman lived here, in a cave and guarded the Janmabhoomi or Ramkot. The main temple contains the statue of Anjani, with child Hanuman, seated on her lap. The devotees believe that all their wishes will be granted with a visit to this holy shrine. A massive structure in the shape of a four-sided fort with circular bastions at each corner, houses a temple of Hanuman and is the most popular shrine in Ayodhya.
Treta-Ke-Thakur - This temple stands at the place, where Rama is said to have performed the Ashvamedha Yagya. About 300 years ago, the Raja of Kullu built a new temple here, which was improved by Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore, during 1784. At the same time, the adjoining ghats were also built. The initial idols in black sandstone were recovered from Saryu and placed in the new temple, famous as Kaleram-ka-Mandir.
Nageshwarnath Temple - The temple of Nageshwarnath, is said to have been established by Kush, the son of Rama. Legend has it that Kush lost his armlet, while bathing in the river Saryu, which was picked up by a nag-kanya, who fell in love with him. As she was a devotee of Shiva, Kush erected this temple for her. It is said that this is the only temple to have survived till the time of Vikramaditya, the rest of city had fallen into ruins and was covered by dense forests. It was by means of this temple that Vikramaditya was able to locate Ayodhya and the sites of different shrines here. The festival of Shivratri is celebrated here with great pomp & show.

Other Pilgrimage Attractions
There is a nice area by the river surrounding Lakshman Ghat. Lakshman, the brother of Rama, is said to have bathed at Lakshman Ghat.Vasistha Kund is a temple with a small round kund like a well. Rama is said to have performed a yajna (sacrifice) at Treta Ka Mandir. There are Sita-Rama Deities in this temple. Kaushalya, the mother of Rama, is said to have established the Kshireswara Nath Temple for Sita. Bharata Kund, at Nandigram, 20 km from Ayodhya, is said to be the place where Bharata ruled while Rama was in exile for 14 years. A half km north of Janmabhoomi is Swarga Dwara, or Ram Ghat, which is an important bathing ghat.

Festivals
Shravan Jhoola Mela (July-August) Parikrama Mela (October-November) Ram Navmi (March-April) Rathyatra (June-July) Saryu Snan (October-November) Ram Vivah (November) Ramayan Mela.

Badrinath

The Abode Of Lord Vishnu
Cradled in the twin mountain ranges of Nar and Narayan is the holiest of the four main shrines, Badrinath along the left bank river Alaknanda. With the splendid Neelkanth mountains as the backdrop, it is an important destination on the scared itinerary of every devour Hindu. Once the spot was carpeted with 'badris' or wild berries and hence was famous as 'Badri Van'.
Badrinath is considered the holiest of the four important shrines in Garhwal. The town is at an altitude of 3,133 m. above sea level, situated on the left bank of river Alaknanda and exactly between the two mountains Nara and Narayan. The shrine is dedicated to Vishnu, the preserver and falls in the religious itinerary of every devout Hindu.
Garhwal Kings built the present temple about two centuries ago. It is a conical structure, 15 m. tall and has small cupola of a gilt bull and spire. There are 15 idols in the temple complex, each sculpted in black stone. The principal idol represents Vishnu in a meditative posture and is flanked by Nara-Narayan. Legend dates it prior to the Vedic age though it is believed to have been re-established by Adi Shankaracharya, an important Hindu saint in 8th century A.D. Some of the other images include Laxmi (Vishnu's consort), Garud (Vishnu's mount),

Shiva & Parvati and Ganesha.
The temple has been renovated several times due to damages by avalanches. It looks fairly modern now due to the colourful "Singh Dwara" or the main entrance gate. It has 3 parts (i) Garbha Griha (the sanctum sanctorum), (ii) Darshan Mandap (for pujas), (iii) Shobha Mandap (for devotees to assemble).
The revered shrine is still alive with myriad legends from mythology. Its sanctity is emphasised in the ancient scriptures as "There are many sacred spots of pilgrimage in the heavens, earth and the nether world, but there has been none equal to Badri, nor shall there be".

Location and Access
State : Uttaranchal
Altitude : 3133 mtrs
Best Season : May to October
Temperature : Summer Max - 17 deg : Min - 5 deg
Accessibility
Airport - Jolly Grant (317 kms.)
Railhead - Rishikesh (300 kms.), Haridwar (275 kms), Kotdwar (327 kms.)
Road - Well connected to Rishikesh, Haridwar, Dehradun, Kotdwar and other hill stations of Garhwal and Kumaon region.

Mythological Legend
Legend has it, when the Ganga was requested to descend to earth to help suffering humanity; the earth was unable to withstand the force of its descent. Therefore the mighty Ganaga was split into twelve holy channels. Alaknanda was one of them that later became the abode of Lord Vishnu or Badrinath.
The temple of Shri Badrinathji on the banks of the Alaknanda River dates back to the vedic times. Situated at an altitude of 3,133 mtrs, the present temple is believed to have been built by Adi Guru Shankaracharya- an 8th century's philosopher-saint, who also established a 'math' here. Also known as 'Vishal Badri', Badrinath is one of the Panch Badris.

Panch Badris or Five Badris

Besides the main temple of Badrinath there are four other smaller badri temples. These are collectively called the panch badris or five badris. Very few pilgrims however, visit the other four Badri temples. These are
Yogadhyan Badri (1920 m.)

Closest to the main temple of Badrinath lies this tiny, sleepy hamlet which remains unnoticed by most pilgrims and is the winter home for the idol at Badrinath. Pandukeshwar is also an important archaeological site. Some years ago, four ancient metal foils engraved with a description of several kings in the region were discovered here. Believed to be over 1500 years old, these foils are kept at Joshimath, 30 km downstream.
Bhavishya Badri (2,744 m.)

The bhavishya or future badri is situated at Subain near Tapovan, about 17 km east of Joshimath. According to Hindu belief, when evil is on the rise in this world, the two mountains Nara and Narayan at Badrinath will close up on each other and destroy the route to the present Badrinath. This would also mark the end of the present world and the beginning of a new one. Lord Badrinath will then appear at the Bhavishya Badri temple and be worshipped here instead of at the present one.

Adi Badri

Adi Badri is the farthest from the other four badris. It is approachable from Karnaprayag by a motorable road enroute Ranikhet. The temple complex has 16 small temples with intricate carvings. Seven of these temples belong to the late Gupta period. Local tradition assigns these buildings to Shankaracharya. A pyramid shaped raised platform, with a black stone idol of Vishnu, distinguishes the main temple.
Pilgrimage Attractions in Badrinath

Badrinath Temple

On the right bank of Alaknanda lies the sacred spot perched at an altitude of 3,133 metres above the sea level. Encircled by a beautiful valley, the 15mtrs. High temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu; it is built in the form of a cone with a small cupola of gilt bull and spire. Built by Adi Guru Shankaracharya - the philosopher-saint of the 8th century, the temple has been renovated several times due to damage by avalanches. Its colourful 'Singh Dwara' or the main entrance gate gives it a new, modern look.

The temple divided into three parts - the 'garbha griba' or sanctum sanctorum, the 'darshan mandap' where the rituals are conducted and the 'sabha mandap'where devotees assemble.The complex has 15 idols. Especially attractive is the one metre high image of Badrinath, finely sculpted in black stone. It represents Lord Vishnu seated in meditative pose.

Tapt Kund

Devotees take a holy dip in the natural thermal springs on the banks of the river Alaknanda, before entering the Badrinath Temple. The water of the kund is believed to have medicinal properties.
Brahma Kapal

A flat platform on the bank of river Alaknanda where Hindus perform propitiating rites for their deceased ancestors.

Mana Village (4 kms.)

Inhabited by Indo-Mangolian tribe, it is considered to be the last Indian village before Tibet on this route. Nearby are Vyas Gufa- the rock cave of saint Ved Vyas, the writer of Mahabharata; Bhim Pul- a natural bridge over the Saraswati river and Vasundhara Falls- a 122 mts. high waterfall- all forming and important part of the pilgrimage to Badrinath.

Mata Murti Temple (3 kms.)

On the right bank of Alaknanda stands the temple dedicated to the mother of Sri Badrinathji.
Excursions from Badrinath

Hemkund Sahib (43 km)

Near the Valley of Flowers is the holy lake Hemkund- an important pilgrimage of the Sikhs and Hindus. Along its shores is the sacred Sikh Shrine where Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Guru unified with God after prolonged mediation in his previous birth.
Nearby is the Lakshman Temple where Lakshman - the brother of Lord Rama performed his penance. The reflection of surrounding snow-clad peaks in its placid waters offers a scenic sight.

Alka Puri (15 kms.)

The source of Alaknanda River from the glacier snouts of Bhagirath- Kharak and Satopanth glaciers.

Satopanth (25 kms.)

A three cornered lake with a circumference of about 1 km., situated at an elevation of 4,402 mt above sea level. It is named after the Hindu triad- Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh, who are believed to occupy one corner each of the lake. The trek is hazardous with dramatic landscapes. An experienced guide is advisable.

Govindghat (25 km)
The confluence of Alaknanda and Lakshman Ganga rivers. It has an imposing Gurudwara named after Guru Gobind Singh.

Joshimath (44 kms.)

The winter home of Shri Badrinathji is situated on the slopes above the confluence of Alaknanda and Dhauliganga. It is one of the four 'maths' established by Adi Guru Shankaracharya.
Panch Prayag

The five important confluences- Deoprayag, Nandprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag and Vishuprayag, form the Panch Prayag.
Deoprayag - The confluence of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi rivers. Ancient stone scriptures are found here. Important pilgrim spots are Shiv Temple and Raghunath Temple.
Rudraprayag - The confluence of Alaknanda and Mandakini rivers. The temples of Rudranath and Chamunda Devi are noteworthy.
Nandprayag - The confluence of Alaknanda and Mandakini rivers. The Gopalji Temple is worth a visit.
Karnaprayag - The confluence of Alaknanda and Pindar rivers with temples of Uma and Karna.
Vishnuprayag - The confluence of Alaknanda and Dhauliganga rivers. An ancient temple of Lord Vishnu stands here by a pool called Vishnu Kund.

Srinagar

The old capital of Garhwal, it is an important cultural and educational centre. Places to visit include Kamleshwar and Kilkeshwar temples and the Shankar Math.

Bhubaneswar

The ancient capital of the Kalinga Empire, and now the capital of Orissa, Bhubaneswar's history goes back over 2000 years. "Bhubaneshwar" means the "abode of God" or "master of the universe" and it was also, once known as the 'Cathedral of the East', on account of the large number of shrines. At one time, over 7000 temples bordered the Bindu Sagar tank. Of these, 500 still survive, all built in the extravagant Oriya style. It is of these temples, that the great poet, Rabindranath Tagore had once said - 'At all places where the eye rests, and also at places where the eye does not rest, the busy chisel of the artist has worked incessantly. The abode of god has been enveloped by a variety of figures depicting the good and the evil, the great as well as the insignificant, the daily occurrences of human life....'
State : Orissa
Significance : Capital of Orissa
Related Links : Lingaraja Temple, Muktesvara Temple

How to Get there
There On the National Highway linking Kolkata (480 km) and Chennai (1225 km). Air links to Delhi, Kolkata, Hyderabad and Nagpur. Rail links to Kolkata, Chennai, Delhi (1745 km), Mumbai (1691 km).

Pilgriamage Attractions of Bhuvaneshwar
Temples

Most of the temples are located near the Bindu-sarovara Tank, which is about two km south of the city centre. Lingaraja and Vital Duel Temples are located west of the tank. Parasumaresvara and Muktesvara temples are east of the tank. The Rajrani and Brahmesvara Temples are a ten to fifteen-minutes walk east of the Muktesvara Temple.

Lingaraja Temple (11th century)

The presiding deity is the svayambhu linga, Hari-Hara Linga, which is half Shiva and half Vishnu. He is also named Tribhuvaneswara, the Lord of the three worlds. The linga of Lingaraja, or Krittivasas, is an uncarved block of granite 8 feet in diameter raised 8 inches above the ground. The Shiva linga is bathed daily with water, milk and bhang. There are many other deities in the temple. In the northeast corner of the temple there is a deity of Parvati.

Muktesvara Temple

Built in the 10th century; this small elegant temple has been described as the most exquisitely ornamented temple in Bhubaneswar. It has an 11m (35 feet) high tower. The sandstone carvings are the most notable feature of this temple. It is also known for its ornamental gateway, carved dwarves, and intricate motif carvings of a smiling lion, adorned with beaded tassels in its mouth. Muktesvara means the Lord who bestows freedom through yoga. The Siddeswara Temple is on the same grounds and has a Ganesh deity.

The small Marichi Kund, between the Mukesvara Temple and the road, is known to cure infertility in women. It is a pleasant place to sit for a while.

Parasurameswara Temple

This temple is the oldest Shiva temple in Bhubaneswar, built in the late 7th century. There are many intricate carvings on this temple. It is close to the Bhubaneswar to Puri road, on the east side of Bindu-sarovara, northeast of the Lingaraja temple. It is the best preserved and most impressive of Bhubaneswar's early temples. It has interesting carvings of elephant and horse processions and intricately carved windows. In the corner of the countryard is the Sahasra-linga, which are 1000 small lingas joined together.

Raj Rani Temple

The Raj Rani Temple (11th century) is surrounded by a nice garden is no longer used for worship. This temple was dedicated to Lord Brahma and is known for its well-carved tower. It is about a km east of the main road. It is one of the later Bhubaneswar temples.

Around the temple are carvings of the eight dikpalas (temple guards), who protect the temple from the different directions. They are eight important demigods. They are Indra (east) the head of the demigods, Agni (southeast) god of fire, Yamaraja (south) god of death, Nirritti (southwest), Varuna(west) god of water, Vayu (northwest) god of air, Kubera(north) god of wealth, and Isana (northeast).

Brahmeshwara Temple

This temple was built around 1050 and is a Shiva-linga temple with active worship. It is known for its intricately carved sculptures. The main tower is over 18m high. It is about a km east of the main road, a good walk from the Raj Rani Temple. On the north wall of the porch is a carving of Laksmi.

Vaital Deul Temple

This interesting 8th century temple is dedicated to Chamunda (Kali). She wears a necklace of skulls and is shown as the eight-armed slayer of the buffalo demon. Her robes usually hide her necklace of skulls and the corpse she is sitting on. In her arms she holds a snake, a bow, a shield, a trident, a thunderbolt and an arrow with which she is piercing the neck of the demon, thus displaying the most terrifying aspect of the goddess Kali. This temple is close to Bindu Sagar, and it has some intricate exterior carvings. To get a good view of the temple's interior, a flashlight (torch) is needed.

ISKCON Temple

The e beautifully built ISKCON temple (413-517) is located on National Highway No.5, Nayapali. The Deities in the temple are Krishna Balaram, Jagannatha, Baladeva and Subhadra, and Gaura-Nitai. There is also a new Radha-Krishna temple. Srila Prabhupada laid the cornerstone for this temple in February 1977, and it was finished in 1992.

There is a small guesthouse here with rooms that have attached bathrooms. These rooms are not always available, but they are quite nice if you can get one. To stay here you have to follow the ashram rules. There is a fairly basic vegetarian restaurant here.

Festivals
The end of January is the time when the Tribal Fair comes around. February to March, Shivaratri is held at the Lingaraj Temple, Hakateswar Temple Atri and throughout Orissa. Magha Saptami is held in January at Khandagiri outside Bhubaneshwar. At Ashok ashtami, during April/May, the idol of Lord Lingaraja is taken out in procession, part of a chariot festival.
Panashankanti (Fire-walking) takes place in various areas on the first day of Baisakh(14 April). In June/July, the impressive Rath Yatra takes place at Puri, Baripada and other parts of the state. Kali Puja, in October/November, the city is lit with lamps. Bali Yatra in October/November, a fair is held on the banks of the Mahanadi River in Cuttack.